More from the tour

I apologise that the last few days of blog entries are missing... mainly due to technical issues of internet connection, and also to the fact that the author has been having so much fun that by the time he gets a few minutes to type up his notes he falls asleep!!!! These should be up within the next 24 hours, albeit a few days late! In the meantime Rod has been putting up some very spiffy photos for you to enjoy (thanks Rod!), and to assure you that we have as yet not managed to lose anyone. Paul tried to test the thickness of the ice in a Stuttgart lake that was (only partly) frozen over, but he managed to survive without going under, despite a few threatening cracking sounds, but thats about as far as we have gone to losing anyone yet!!! I suspect there are quite a few of us who are having such a great time we might not want to return to Australia when the time comes...

Friday 22 January Rothenburg ob der Tauber – Nördlingen - Dinkelsbühl – Rothenberg

Everyone enjoyed a bit of a sleep in today... after a BIG night in Stuttgart for many of us, and MANY litres of Swabian beer consumed into the wee small hours!!!

After yet another fantastic German breakfast (hot eggs, lots of meat, beautiful fresh bread rolls, cheeses, fruit, yogurt, cereal for those who like it, lots of juices and big jugs of thick hot coffee and cream), most set off on foot in their own time to explore the amazingly preserved Medieval city of Rothenburg ob der Tauber.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber is a beautiful little town on the Romantic Road, and for tourists (like us!) interested in seeing an intact, walled medieval city, the epitome of German towns. The Altstadt (old town) of Rothenburg is a patchwork of winding cobbled lanes lined with picturesque half timbered houses, brightly painted and decorated with ornate brass and iron signs which are themselves often worthy of a photograph or an adoring stare.

Massive towers like Röderturm and the intact city walls form a complete ring around Rothenburg and you can walk around these massive fortified walls to get great views over the city and the Tauber valley.

What makes Rothenburg ob der Tauber even more exciting is its reputation as town of eternal Christmas. All year round lots of shops offer beautiful handcrafted Christmas gifts and and crafted wood carvings and souvenirs. In December the town gets realy crowded, because nobody wants to miss the famous Christmas Market, one of the most romantic ones in Germany. Thankfully being here in January it is really quite, and many of us enjoyed a quiet stroll through the cobbled streets and spent time browsing in the quaint shops, many of which were crammed with the most beautiful toys and decorations.

Many of us walked beyond the Plönlein, that scenic fork in the road which is the landmark of Rothenburg, and one of the famous sights of the town. Though deserted, the market place and the Rathaus (aptly named Renaissance Town Hall) provided another scenic highlight. Another was the idyllic Burggarten (Rothenburg castle garden). Covered in a blanket of snow, and with mist rising in the valley below the castle walls it was a scene straight from a Fairy Tale. The western side of he historic square is dominated by the soaring gable of the Ratsherrntrinkstube (councillor’s drinking room) which dates from 1446 and features a remarkable sundial and ornate town clock which was erected in 1683. At 11am a group of us was lucky enough to watch the small windows either side of the clock open and as the bells rang, life sized wooden carvings of tow important figures who, according to legend, saved the town in 1631 when a city councillor rescued the town by taking the challenge to empty 3 1/4 liter of wine in one gulp!

A major pilgrimage site of Rothenburg is the splendid gothic church St.Jacob. Its main attraction is the Heilige Blut Altar (Holy Blood Altar) carved by Tilman Riemenschneider, said to contain drops of Christ's blood, collected at the time of the crucifixion.


In the afternoon we travelled along the ‘Romantic Road’ to visit several other of the famed walled cities of the region. First we visited Nördlingen, which was fascinating as it was originally built on the side of a giant meteorite crater. Apart from that it is the only completely intact Medieval city in Germany with high walls that can be walked all the way around. The historical old town is dominated by the stunning late Gothic hall church of St George, with its imposing 90 metre high bell tower (named ’Daniel’), which for those brave enough to climb it proved quite a challenge in sub zero temperatures!


Next stop was the small town of Dinkelsbühl, on the River Wörnitz. Ringed by 10th century walls, gateways and towers including the 14th century gateway the Rothenberger Tor, the impressive town is characterised by splendid early Renaissance burghers’ houses (even more impressive than those of Rothenberg or Nördlingen), beautiful decorated half-timber buildings, busy town squares and enchanting little laneways. In the middle of the town the lte Gothic Minster (also dedicated to St George) stands. Built in 1448-1499 the church has an incredibly high nave, and even though the tower rises 62 metres, it seems small. This is probably because the tower is from the original church, built in 1225. Inside the church, six impressive side altars date from the time of when the church was completed.


After tasty hot Goulashsuppe and bread, hot coffee and warm appelstrudel, we all walked back to the bus to return to Rothenberg, passing through the Romantic Road cities of Feuchtwangen and Schillingsfürst, before hitting the Rothenberger Hof Restaurant bar for German wines, beers and the ever-present Appelsaft and a lovely hot meal of soup, followed by roasted chicken with potatoes, tomatos and peppers and a pear and cream desert with chocolate sauce. Then it was time to put on all our warm clothes, hats, scarfs and gloves and walk back into the Old Town of Rothenburg to meet the Nightwatchman. Dressed all in black in his medieval cloak, and hat, and bearing his long axe and candle lantern, he proceeded to give us an unforgettable guided tour of the old city, its castle, walls, and important sights. He was a brilliant tour guide, and with the crunch of snow and ice below our feet, the total darkness enveloping the softly-illuminated buildings and about -4 degrees, it was most atmospheric as we were told of the fascinating history of the city, medieval life, wars, plagues, and some of the famous characters of the town.


The night ended with an impromptu performance (suitably in Latin) of MUCS’ favourite song, Laudate Nomen Domini... written about the same time as some of the buildings were were surrounded by!!! In the darkness and the ancient surrounds , the Latin words seemed to fit nicely as we huddled in the shadow of the magnificent Gothic nave of the St Jacobskirche. All agreed it was a fantastic and magical night.


Back to the warm and inviting bar at the Rothenburger Hof, and then to our warm beds. Much needed as the outside temperatures begin to plumet well below zero. That said, we are all getting used to the cold temperatures, and with a fine day and no wind during most of the day, it began to feel almost balmy !!!

Andrew Wailes