Hello everyone,
I am most sure Andrew will follow up on his running commentary shortly. This is just to let everyone know that the tour concluded on a high note, with several of the choir being either enroute, mid-air or hitting the ground back home as this is being typed at Changi airport, Singapore.
I hope this little cyber-notice board has been useful to those back home.
Keep an eye out for the tour DVD and CD to be produced within the next few weeks.
kind regards
Rod
Friday 5 February 2010
Tuesday 2 February 2010
January 28 Thursday Salzburg - Linz – Vienna
This morning we checked out of our Salzburg Hotel, and in heavy snow loaded the coaches ready for another on time departure. With one or two minor exceptions, we have been very good at loading and departing on time each day, unusual given there are 86 of us (including drivers and tour guides). As we left the magical City of Salzburg for the last time on this tour, we were all rather sad to leave given the beauty of this place. Following the River Salzach we had our last glimpses of the mighty fortress towering above the baroque domes and capulas that give Salzburg its distinctive post card skyline and were quickly heading towards the majestic Austrian Alps. A short way out of Salzburg we passed the Convent Church which was the setting for the famous Wedding Scene of Maria and Captain Von Trapp in THAT movie.
WE were bound for Linz, and the famous Abbey and Church of St. Florian, the early Roman Martyr who is now Patron Saint of Firemen amongst other things! The Abbey was built on the spot near to where the Saint had been executed, and according to legend when he was tortured and drowned, the Mill Stone to which he was attached miraculously floated. That same stone, so the legend goes, was then used as the corner stone of the first Abbey.
Over the last thousand years or so the complex has expanded and now stands as a magnificent baroque palace, with thousands of rooms and vast cloisters, a large graveyard complete with impressive War Memorials, and of course the famous Collegiate Church. Prior to visiting the church, we were treated to an informative tour of some of the important areas of the Abbey, beginning with the massive stone cloisters which surrounded a huge landscaped courtyard, covered in several feet of deep, pristine snow which led to the Abbey catacombs below the church. Here were the coffins of bishops, princes, monks and notable figures in the life of the Abbey. Chief amongst them was the great Austrian composer Anton Bruckner, whose body lies directly beneath the Church’s famous organ in an impressive bronze sarcophagus directly in front of a huge collection of some 6000 skulls and leg bones of bodies which were formerly buried in the Abbey cemetery.
We then visited the Abbey’s famed library, which houses one of Europe’s most significant collections of early manuscripts and pre-fifteenth century volumes. Housed in a magnificent room, with books lining the walls twenty feet up on all sides, the library features ornate wood paneling and magnificent coloured frescos on the ceiling surrounded by lavish baroque plasterwork and marble statuary.
The Abbey also contains an important collection of Religious artwork, with a gallery of large oil paintings from the 15th century, originally the part of huge decorated altars. Another gallery featured sculptures and carvings of St Florian by European Masters, and yet another of superb Stained Glass, with the earliest pieces quite staggeringly over 700 years old.
The highlight of the St Florian visit was however the stunning Abbey Church, and its towering, highly decorated organ, named in honour of Anton Bruckner who was Abbey organist there for many years. Featuring several huge ranks of over 7000 gold and silver pipes, four manuals, and over 100 stops the massive organ is famed throughout the world as a masterpiece of organ building, and we were treated to a private half hour recital on the famous instrument by the resident organist,
We were then given the rare honour of standing on the chancel steps in front of the high altar
In freezing conditions, where we performed a number of Bruckner’s motets, originally written for the famed boy’s and men’s choir of the Abbey Church which continues to sing on Sundays there to this day. The vast, ornate interior with its towering marble statues, detailed gold work and superb wood carvings and frescos has an intimidatingly-resonant acoustic, which provided the perfect setting for our music, apart from the three below zero temperature of the building!
Upon arrival in Vienna we immediately embarked on a quick coach tour of the ‘City of Dreams’ – and as we travelled along the great ‘Ring trasse’ – perhaps one of the world’s most impressive boulevards – we were all impressed by the magnificent buildings that are a reminder of the Imperial grandeur of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The amazing neo-gothic Rathaus, with its huge ice rink out front, the beautiful palaces and formal gardens, the museums, arches, churches and elegant residential buildings certainly make Vienna a major attraction. If you like big buildings and symetery, this is certainly a place to visit. By the time we checked into the hotel it was getting late, so we enjoyed dinner in the hotel restaurant, and then headed out for the nearest bar… given our location near the West Wien Bahnhof, (a bit like the equivalent of Southern Cross Station!), the surrounds were not as elegant as those of the Old City, but somehow the dodgy atmosphere of a big European City Red Light District just added to the charm of it all, and we all drank merrily at the ‘local’ until it was time to head a few blocks back to the hotel, where warm beds in our cramped little rooms were awaiting!
Andrew Wailes
WE were bound for Linz, and the famous Abbey and Church of St. Florian, the early Roman Martyr who is now Patron Saint of Firemen amongst other things! The Abbey was built on the spot near to where the Saint had been executed, and according to legend when he was tortured and drowned, the Mill Stone to which he was attached miraculously floated. That same stone, so the legend goes, was then used as the corner stone of the first Abbey.
Over the last thousand years or so the complex has expanded and now stands as a magnificent baroque palace, with thousands of rooms and vast cloisters, a large graveyard complete with impressive War Memorials, and of course the famous Collegiate Church. Prior to visiting the church, we were treated to an informative tour of some of the important areas of the Abbey, beginning with the massive stone cloisters which surrounded a huge landscaped courtyard, covered in several feet of deep, pristine snow which led to the Abbey catacombs below the church. Here were the coffins of bishops, princes, monks and notable figures in the life of the Abbey. Chief amongst them was the great Austrian composer Anton Bruckner, whose body lies directly beneath the Church’s famous organ in an impressive bronze sarcophagus directly in front of a huge collection of some 6000 skulls and leg bones of bodies which were formerly buried in the Abbey cemetery.
We then visited the Abbey’s famed library, which houses one of Europe’s most significant collections of early manuscripts and pre-fifteenth century volumes. Housed in a magnificent room, with books lining the walls twenty feet up on all sides, the library features ornate wood paneling and magnificent coloured frescos on the ceiling surrounded by lavish baroque plasterwork and marble statuary.
The Abbey also contains an important collection of Religious artwork, with a gallery of large oil paintings from the 15th century, originally the part of huge decorated altars. Another gallery featured sculptures and carvings of St Florian by European Masters, and yet another of superb Stained Glass, with the earliest pieces quite staggeringly over 700 years old.
The highlight of the St Florian visit was however the stunning Abbey Church, and its towering, highly decorated organ, named in honour of Anton Bruckner who was Abbey organist there for many years. Featuring several huge ranks of over 7000 gold and silver pipes, four manuals, and over 100 stops the massive organ is famed throughout the world as a masterpiece of organ building, and we were treated to a private half hour recital on the famous instrument by the resident organist,
We were then given the rare honour of standing on the chancel steps in front of the high altar
In freezing conditions, where we performed a number of Bruckner’s motets, originally written for the famed boy’s and men’s choir of the Abbey Church which continues to sing on Sundays there to this day. The vast, ornate interior with its towering marble statues, detailed gold work and superb wood carvings and frescos has an intimidatingly-resonant acoustic, which provided the perfect setting for our music, apart from the three below zero temperature of the building!
Upon arrival in Vienna we immediately embarked on a quick coach tour of the ‘City of Dreams’ – and as we travelled along the great ‘Ring trasse’ – perhaps one of the world’s most impressive boulevards – we were all impressed by the magnificent buildings that are a reminder of the Imperial grandeur of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The amazing neo-gothic Rathaus, with its huge ice rink out front, the beautiful palaces and formal gardens, the museums, arches, churches and elegant residential buildings certainly make Vienna a major attraction. If you like big buildings and symetery, this is certainly a place to visit. By the time we checked into the hotel it was getting late, so we enjoyed dinner in the hotel restaurant, and then headed out for the nearest bar… given our location near the West Wien Bahnhof, (a bit like the equivalent of Southern Cross Station!), the surrounds were not as elegant as those of the Old City, but somehow the dodgy atmosphere of a big European City Red Light District just added to the charm of it all, and we all drank merrily at the ‘local’ until it was time to head a few blocks back to the hotel, where warm beds in our cramped little rooms were awaiting!
Andrew Wailes
Friday 29 January 2010
Wednesday January 27 Salzburg – Hallein – Obersdorf – Arnsdorf- Lamprechtshausen
This morning we travelled about a half an hour out of Salzburg, toward the Alps, to the little village of Obendorf, and to the nearby Hallein Salt Mines. There we enjoy a guided tour of the Salt Mines in Hallein. After being issued with white smocks and trousers, we began to resemble a Hazchem Incident Battillion! We boarded a small subterranean train and made our way deep into the mountain , some 150 meters underground. A series of long narrow mines and dimly lit caverns carved from the rock provided the setting for a series of underground galleries which demonstrated the salt extraction techniques and also told the history of the area and the mines, which date back to the time of the Celts. We were even offered to chance to taste the rocks, being handed large lumps of salt crystals, which did indeed taste like giant lumps of rocksalt. In the middle of the mine there was a small underground cave where we watched a film re-enacting the story of the ruling Archbishop Prince of Salzburg who ruled the entire area thanks to the vast wealth generated by the salt he mined.
A definite highlight of the tour was the miner’s shutes that we slid down, sending us 100 metres deeper into the mine. Lots of squeals and shrieks echoed through the mines mine as 80 or so MUCSters flung themselves into the darkness below, reaching speeds of almost 30kms an hour as they slid down.
Another highlight was crossing the subterranean lake deep below the mountain on a large wooden boat. As we crossed the mirror-like waters, we were told that the lake below us was a cool 270 meters deep in the middle, and to make the short trip a little more atmospheric, we were treated to a sound and light show which flooded the cave with lasers and brightly coloured lights.
A series of underground chapels and monuments was another feature of the mines, as well as a reproduction of the so called ‘Salzburg Man’, unearthed by miners in 1605, and believed to be a perfectly preserved corpse of a trapped Celtic Miner from over 1500 years ago. Eventually we emerged from the mountain to a winter wonderland scene of deep snow, and white pine trees, before we all snapped up souvenirs including various forms of edible salts, crystals, jewellery and rocks.
We then headed back to the busses, for the short trip along the Alpine Road to the little village of Oberndorf/Arnsdorf where deep snow had covered the buildings and turned everything into a tranquil white landscape, broken only by tall snow-covered trees, smoking chimneys and church steeples. We wandered through the little toy-like village to the ‘Silent Night Chapel’, built on the old site of St Nicholas’ Church in Oberndorf which was destroyed by floods about 150 years ago. The chapel is tiny, and has only enough room for a few people to sit and admire the two elegant stained glass windows that commemorate the collaboration between the music teacher Franz Xaver Gruber and the Local priest Joseph Moor who wrote the famous carol in 1818 when the church organ was broken and there was a desire to have some music for the Christmas Service when snow has isolated the town and there were no other musicians available to perform. We were met there by a member of the acclaimed Michael Haydn Choir, who guided us to the next town of Arnsdorf, where we visited the 1000 year old Pilgrim Church dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The church featured numerous shrines, all ornately decorated in the high baroque style, as well as the original single manual organ once played by Franz Xavier Gruber perched high above the nave, and a rather gruesome ‘bone chamber’ outside the church, which was stacked with human skulls and leg bones – all engraved with the names of the dead who had once been buried in the church’s tiny cemetery, but who were later exhumed and ‘restored’ to save space!
There we gave an informal and impromptu performance of ‘Stille Nacht’ standing ‘round yon Virgin Mother and Child’ – the church’s beautiful nativity scene which was the centerpiece of the church. Singing in freezing temperatures, as heavy snow fell gently around us, there really was a sense of silence and calm, and it was clear to all where the inspiration fro Gruber’s famous carol had come from.
At the church we were met by Stefan, a tall imposing man from the village, who was also a member of the Michael Haydn Choir who we would be performing with that night. He guided us on through the little farms and houses of the surrounding area to the village of Lamprechtshausen, where we were shown into the main building in the town… a large , modern multi-purpose facility that served as the school, public library, recreation centre, village hall and .music academy.
The local Michael Haydn Choir, named in honour of the famed local composer from Salzburg, had been looking forward to hosting us very much, and it was immediately clear that they had gone to a lot of effort to make us feel welcome. They had completely redecorated the school gymnasium, covering the walls in Australian outback colours of ochre, red and orange, and had commissioned a local artist to paint a series of huge murals depicting Kangaroos superimposed over Austrian maps and scenes… an incredible gesture of welcome. The local choir had also decorated the walls with giant ‘cow spots’ of black leather, representing the local rural community, and had designed special ‘cow spot’ t shirts especially for the occasion. The theme of the concert was ‘Milka ku meets Kanguru’ – an attempt to break down the stereotypical image of Austrians all being yodeling, old fashioned cow herders, and Australians all being outback adventurers with no cultural taste whatsoever. Whilst they sang a contemporary program of daring Austrian arrangements and compositions, ranging from Shoenberg to close harmony ballads, the Australians sang traditional Austrian and German sacred music dominated by a healthy sprinkling of Bruckner. A highlight was a combined performance of ‘Locus Iste’ which I had the great pleasure of conducting, and the two choirs combined strength of over 120 singers made a magnificent sound in the hall which was packed to overflowing, with every chair being brought into the space, and people standing at the back and in the aisles. We were told it ws the most people that they could ever remember squashing into the hall, and the Mayor was on hand to present me with a beautiful wooden lantern to mark the occasion, along with a facsimilie copy of the original manuscript and poem of ‘Silent Night’.
After hearing the magnificent Michael Haydn Choir, with their impeccable diction and intonation, MUCS were obviously inspired to give one of their finest performances so far on tour. Our forty minute recital of Bruckner, Mendelssohn, and a few short pieces by Tye, Leavitt and Rachmaninov was extremely well received with a long ovation and several curtain calls – even without curtains!!!
We exchanged gifts and then enjoyed a feast put on for us, and shared by the other choir snd the people of the village who had helped prepare for us… we exchanged songs, and even learnt a simple yodelling song! It was a great night and our hosts were wonderful. It was only due to the strict laws about bus driver hours that we left as early as we did, so that we would not be late departing the next day. It was a shame as we all wanted to stay longer, but hopefully we will all meet again, perhaps in Australia!
Tuesday January 26, Australia Day - Salzburg
We woke today, to find Salzburg blanketed in thick snow… a magical sight which I think everyone was secretly hoping to experience for themselves!
We had a full morning free to explore the city, visit the churches, take coffee in the famous coffee houses, hit the classy shopping, go ice-skating, visit the Sound of Music sights, sleep in, visit the wonderful museums of art or Mozart’s birth or living houses, or a host of other options.
A large group of us decided to take the steep climb up to the top of the mighty Salzburg fortress, and in the heavy snow it certainly made for a picturesque scene. Once at the top we enjoyed stunning vistas of the area surrounding Salzburg, and marvelled at the array of domes and steeples that dot the city… there are 38 catholic churches in Salzburg alone! From the massive Dom, to the distinctive Red Onion Dome of Nonnberg Abbey (where Maria Von Trapp first lived as a member of the convent), the view is one of the most beautiful in Europe.
We decided to take the detailed tour of the fortress, given a large number of MUCSsters had not been there before, and for an hour or so we walked the inside passageways and staircases of the great castle, including a windy visit to the high tower for photos. There we raised the Australian flag in honour of Australia Day… it seemed rather appropriate, although I don’t think there was any panic in Salzburg below!
On the way down, we visited the tiny Fortress Church of St George, as well as the old gunnery platforms and medieval shops that once served the 300 or so people who lived inside the castle walls.
The snow and subzero temperatures made for an invigorating walk, and by the time we had walked down and back through the old town, another visit to Tomaselli’s Café was in order, where lots of fantastic cakes and coffee were consumed in style.
People then made good use of a few hours in Salzburg by doing some more shopping , and I suspect MUCS significantly boosted the local economy in a relatively short time. At 2.30pm we all independently made our way across the River to the New Town, and to the famous Mozarteum (one of the greatest Music Conservatoriums in the world), to the Great Hall of the Old Mozarteum where we were all booked in to attend a Symphony Concert by the Mozarteum Symphony as part of the Salzburg Mozart Week festivities.
We were treated to a wonderful concert, featuring a Haydn Symphony, a Mozart Symphony and a Mozart Piano Concerto and enjoyed the Baroque splendour of the famous Hall, with its lavish gold decoration and gorgeous heavily ornamented organ.
We headed for the Restaurant around the corner for Roast Pork and Pasta, before deciding what to do with the rest of the night. A large proportion opted for the opera – Mozart of course – and thoroughly enjoyed the $9 student tickets to see a great production of The Marriage of Figaro… performed by the Salzburg Opera Orchestra and the best singers of the Mozarteum in an extremely funny production.
By the time the opera was over, and other had wandered around the picturesque streets of this historical city, it was getting VERY cold and late. A quick trip back home on the trolley car along the River Salzach, and we all eventually returned to our hotel, which was now well covered in deep, powdery snow… like a scene from a Christmas postcard!
Andrew Wailes
A definite highlight of the tour was the miner’s shutes that we slid down, sending us 100 metres deeper into the mine. Lots of squeals and shrieks echoed through the mines mine as 80 or so MUCSters flung themselves into the darkness below, reaching speeds of almost 30kms an hour as they slid down.
Another highlight was crossing the subterranean lake deep below the mountain on a large wooden boat. As we crossed the mirror-like waters, we were told that the lake below us was a cool 270 meters deep in the middle, and to make the short trip a little more atmospheric, we were treated to a sound and light show which flooded the cave with lasers and brightly coloured lights.
A series of underground chapels and monuments was another feature of the mines, as well as a reproduction of the so called ‘Salzburg Man’, unearthed by miners in 1605, and believed to be a perfectly preserved corpse of a trapped Celtic Miner from over 1500 years ago. Eventually we emerged from the mountain to a winter wonderland scene of deep snow, and white pine trees, before we all snapped up souvenirs including various forms of edible salts, crystals, jewellery and rocks.
We then headed back to the busses, for the short trip along the Alpine Road to the little village of Oberndorf/Arnsdorf where deep snow had covered the buildings and turned everything into a tranquil white landscape, broken only by tall snow-covered trees, smoking chimneys and church steeples. We wandered through the little toy-like village to the ‘Silent Night Chapel’, built on the old site of St Nicholas’ Church in Oberndorf which was destroyed by floods about 150 years ago. The chapel is tiny, and has only enough room for a few people to sit and admire the two elegant stained glass windows that commemorate the collaboration between the music teacher Franz Xaver Gruber and the Local priest Joseph Moor who wrote the famous carol in 1818 when the church organ was broken and there was a desire to have some music for the Christmas Service when snow has isolated the town and there were no other musicians available to perform. We were met there by a member of the acclaimed Michael Haydn Choir, who guided us to the next town of Arnsdorf, where we visited the 1000 year old Pilgrim Church dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The church featured numerous shrines, all ornately decorated in the high baroque style, as well as the original single manual organ once played by Franz Xavier Gruber perched high above the nave, and a rather gruesome ‘bone chamber’ outside the church, which was stacked with human skulls and leg bones – all engraved with the names of the dead who had once been buried in the church’s tiny cemetery, but who were later exhumed and ‘restored’ to save space!
There we gave an informal and impromptu performance of ‘Stille Nacht’ standing ‘round yon Virgin Mother and Child’ – the church’s beautiful nativity scene which was the centerpiece of the church. Singing in freezing temperatures, as heavy snow fell gently around us, there really was a sense of silence and calm, and it was clear to all where the inspiration fro Gruber’s famous carol had come from.
At the church we were met by Stefan, a tall imposing man from the village, who was also a member of the Michael Haydn Choir who we would be performing with that night. He guided us on through the little farms and houses of the surrounding area to the village of Lamprechtshausen, where we were shown into the main building in the town… a large , modern multi-purpose facility that served as the school, public library, recreation centre, village hall and .music academy.
The local Michael Haydn Choir, named in honour of the famed local composer from Salzburg, had been looking forward to hosting us very much, and it was immediately clear that they had gone to a lot of effort to make us feel welcome. They had completely redecorated the school gymnasium, covering the walls in Australian outback colours of ochre, red and orange, and had commissioned a local artist to paint a series of huge murals depicting Kangaroos superimposed over Austrian maps and scenes… an incredible gesture of welcome. The local choir had also decorated the walls with giant ‘cow spots’ of black leather, representing the local rural community, and had designed special ‘cow spot’ t shirts especially for the occasion. The theme of the concert was ‘Milka ku meets Kanguru’ – an attempt to break down the stereotypical image of Austrians all being yodeling, old fashioned cow herders, and Australians all being outback adventurers with no cultural taste whatsoever. Whilst they sang a contemporary program of daring Austrian arrangements and compositions, ranging from Shoenberg to close harmony ballads, the Australians sang traditional Austrian and German sacred music dominated by a healthy sprinkling of Bruckner. A highlight was a combined performance of ‘Locus Iste’ which I had the great pleasure of conducting, and the two choirs combined strength of over 120 singers made a magnificent sound in the hall which was packed to overflowing, with every chair being brought into the space, and people standing at the back and in the aisles. We were told it ws the most people that they could ever remember squashing into the hall, and the Mayor was on hand to present me with a beautiful wooden lantern to mark the occasion, along with a facsimilie copy of the original manuscript and poem of ‘Silent Night’.
After hearing the magnificent Michael Haydn Choir, with their impeccable diction and intonation, MUCS were obviously inspired to give one of their finest performances so far on tour. Our forty minute recital of Bruckner, Mendelssohn, and a few short pieces by Tye, Leavitt and Rachmaninov was extremely well received with a long ovation and several curtain calls – even without curtains!!!
We exchanged gifts and then enjoyed a feast put on for us, and shared by the other choir snd the people of the village who had helped prepare for us… we exchanged songs, and even learnt a simple yodelling song! It was a great night and our hosts were wonderful. It was only due to the strict laws about bus driver hours that we left as early as we did, so that we would not be late departing the next day. It was a shame as we all wanted to stay longer, but hopefully we will all meet again, perhaps in Australia!
Tuesday January 26, Australia Day - Salzburg
We woke today, to find Salzburg blanketed in thick snow… a magical sight which I think everyone was secretly hoping to experience for themselves!
We had a full morning free to explore the city, visit the churches, take coffee in the famous coffee houses, hit the classy shopping, go ice-skating, visit the Sound of Music sights, sleep in, visit the wonderful museums of art or Mozart’s birth or living houses, or a host of other options.
A large group of us decided to take the steep climb up to the top of the mighty Salzburg fortress, and in the heavy snow it certainly made for a picturesque scene. Once at the top we enjoyed stunning vistas of the area surrounding Salzburg, and marvelled at the array of domes and steeples that dot the city… there are 38 catholic churches in Salzburg alone! From the massive Dom, to the distinctive Red Onion Dome of Nonnberg Abbey (where Maria Von Trapp first lived as a member of the convent), the view is one of the most beautiful in Europe.
We decided to take the detailed tour of the fortress, given a large number of MUCSsters had not been there before, and for an hour or so we walked the inside passageways and staircases of the great castle, including a windy visit to the high tower for photos. There we raised the Australian flag in honour of Australia Day… it seemed rather appropriate, although I don’t think there was any panic in Salzburg below!
On the way down, we visited the tiny Fortress Church of St George, as well as the old gunnery platforms and medieval shops that once served the 300 or so people who lived inside the castle walls.
The snow and subzero temperatures made for an invigorating walk, and by the time we had walked down and back through the old town, another visit to Tomaselli’s Café was in order, where lots of fantastic cakes and coffee were consumed in style.
People then made good use of a few hours in Salzburg by doing some more shopping , and I suspect MUCS significantly boosted the local economy in a relatively short time. At 2.30pm we all independently made our way across the River to the New Town, and to the famous Mozarteum (one of the greatest Music Conservatoriums in the world), to the Great Hall of the Old Mozarteum where we were all booked in to attend a Symphony Concert by the Mozarteum Symphony as part of the Salzburg Mozart Week festivities.
We were treated to a wonderful concert, featuring a Haydn Symphony, a Mozart Symphony and a Mozart Piano Concerto and enjoyed the Baroque splendour of the famous Hall, with its lavish gold decoration and gorgeous heavily ornamented organ.
We headed for the Restaurant around the corner for Roast Pork and Pasta, before deciding what to do with the rest of the night. A large proportion opted for the opera – Mozart of course – and thoroughly enjoyed the $9 student tickets to see a great production of The Marriage of Figaro… performed by the Salzburg Opera Orchestra and the best singers of the Mozarteum in an extremely funny production.
By the time the opera was over, and other had wandered around the picturesque streets of this historical city, it was getting VERY cold and late. A quick trip back home on the trolley car along the River Salzach, and we all eventually returned to our hotel, which was now well covered in deep, powdery snow… like a scene from a Christmas postcard!
Andrew Wailes
Wednesday 27 January 2010
January 25, Monday Munich - Salzburg
Today began with lots of strong, black coffee!
We were surprisingly fresh given the night before at the Hofbräuhaus which we put down to the purity of the Bavarian beer… thank goodness for that. Our Munich-born guide assured us that nobody gets hangovers from drinking good Munich beer!
On board the coaches, and off we went for a detailed guided tour of the main sights of Munich. Beginning at the stately Schloss Nymphenburg, the summer palace of the Wittelsbach's. Begun in 1664, this sprawling Italian style villa took more than 150 years to complete. The final palace plan was completed mainly by Elector Max Emanuel, who added four large pavilions in 1702.
Next sight was the huge Munich Olympia park, site of the 1972 Olympic games at the city’s northern edge. Constructed out of rubble left over the bombing during WW1, and partly underground, the park now features extensive landscaping, including ‘mini alps’ which can be used for walking, tobogganing or even skiing. Close by was the new home of BMW – very flash architecture and uber-modern. En route we saw an old air raid shelter, still standing solidly in the snow-covered parklands that surround the city. The main parkland of Munich is the magnificent 18th century ‘Englischer Garten’. Nude sunbathing is allowed in parts of the park, but thankfully it was a tad cold for that, and the only people who could be seen were the rather confused looking Geese and Ducks who were sitting on the frozen lakes!!!
Another superb example of German architecture was the massive and beautiful Bavarian National Museum building, the Bayerisches Nationalmuseum. Established in 1855, this vast building near the Haus der Kunst now contain millions of priceless works of art, including paintings, carvings, sculptures, statues, stained glass and church art.
Next was a sweep past the impressive New Parliament Building, the grand and imposing Bavarian Opera and the 1330 room Rezidenz (Palace) of Munich, which contains no less than 5 concert halls. We then disembarked from our coaches on the steps of the Opera House, and then continued our tour on foot, once again marveling at the Gothic splendor of the Neues Rathaus (City Hall), the Frauenkirche, Alt Peter, City Gate and the hustle and bustle of the Marienplatz. Everyone parted company for a few hours for a last minute shopping frenzy, where many beer steins, hats, postcards, glasses, miniature cuckoo clocks and Bavarian souvenirs were snapped up before we all headed for the famous ‘fisherman’s fountain’ to head back to our coaches for our trip to Salzburg.
On the way, with the Austrian Alps looming majestically in the background, we could not resist the opportunity to watch the Sound of Music… with the scenery so beautiful, and with 80 choristers all still in fairly goo voice, it was lots of fun and a great way to build excitement as we headed to the stunningly beautiful Baroque city known as the ‘Rome of the North’, with its baroque domes, elegant steeples, coloured bell towers and post card scenery.
We soon crossed the border and although we were all sad to have left Germany, we were equally excited to be embarking on the Austrian leg of our tour.
Upon arrival in Salzburg, we embarked upon a walking tour of the Old Town… beginning at Mirabell Palace, which was commissioned to be built by Wolf Dietrich for Salome Alt in 1606. The Mirabell Gardens hold groups of statues based on figures from Greek mythology. The gardens adjoin the Kongresshaus (Congress Center) and the Kurhaus (Paracelsus Health Spa) and are right next to the famous Mozarteum where we would be attending a performance the following day (on Mozart’s Birthday!).
Towering over Salzburg as a silent sentinel for the last thousand years is the Hohensalzburg Fortress, built in 1077 by Archbishop Gebhard. Considerably enlarged by Archbishop Leonhard von Keutschach (1495-1519), the imposing white fortress sits atop a giant mountain of rock, and is the largest, fully-preserved fortress still standing in central Europe.
One of the most beautiful sights in Salzburg is the charming Getreidegasse (main shopping street). This magic is not only generated by the high, narrow houses tightly nestled together, the enticing shops and the wrought iron guild signs, but also to the romantic passageways and courtyards which intersect the street. In Getreidegasse, no. 9 is where the Leopold Mozart family lived from 1747 to 1773. Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was born here on January 27, 1756. Today the rooms once occupied by the Mozart family house a museum. Mozart is everywhere to be seen in Salzburg, so this building is in many ways a spiritual centre of a secular kind in Salzburg.
If Mozart’s birthhouse is the secular heart of the city, then the Dom (Cathedral) is certainly the sacred heart. The original cathedral was built in 774 by St. Virgil (745-784). After a huge fire that devastated the Old Salzburg in 1598, reconstruction of the cathedral commenced in 1614 under Prince Archbishop Markus Sittikus to plans by Santino Solari. The great Italian Baroque style Dom was consecrated in 1628 by Prince Archbishop Paris Lodron and occupies pride of place in the city. A giant green dome and two smaller domes tower above the surrounding buildings, and the bells of the Cathedral can be heard for miles. We were granted a rare chance to perform and record a few short pieces in the Dom, and we certainly enjoyed the incredible acoustics of the building, singing in front of Mozart’s favourite organ (the Cathedral has five significant organs which are all still in use!). The vast baroque paintings and marble carvings, the massive dome and the sheer size of the place is certainly inspiring. The nave can hold some 10,000 people standing and yet, the architecture makes it feel smaller. In any case it is certainly a magnificent building and we were greatly honored to be allowed the chance to perform there.
Next to the Dom is Prince Archbishops Residenz. The medieval bishops' residence was given today's magnificent early Baroque appearance at the end of the 16th century. It has recently been renovated, and it was in this building that the young Wolfgang Mozart gave his first public concert, at the age of 6!
St. Peter’s Abbey and Benedictine Monastery was founded by St. Rupert about the year 700, the latter with romanesque and gothic cloisters. The church is high romanesque converted to late-baroque. Adjoining the church is St. Peter's cemetery, the final resting place of prominent personalities, including the composer Michael Haydn and the sister of Wolfgang Amadeus, Nannerl Mozart. The St. Peter's Cemetery (Petersfriedhof) in Salzburg has a fascinating history. It's one of Europe's oldest cemeteries; the catacombs in the cliff (Moenschberg) behind it date to 215 AD. A small church is also partially contained within the mountain, carved straight out from bare rock.
Another favourite spot was the various cafes which have been an important part of life in Salzburg for centuries and still are. Of particular note are two cafes, which were well frequented by the MUCS contingent: Tomaselli’s (Mozart’s favourite café, and founded in 1705), and Furst’s, immediately across the road (founded in 1805 and home of the original Salzburger MozartKugel.) Coffee in Salzburg is a real tradition, not to be rushed, but always to be enjoyed. We certainly enjoyed the elegant waiters in their dinner suits, the table service and the amazing cakes, but apart from anything else it is the coffee itself that is so great. But not just any old coffee… there are dozens to choose from including: Melange (a normal white coffee), Verlängerter (a large black coffee), Einspänner (a coffee served in a mug, topped with whipped cream and icing sugar; rather lovely!), Kleiner Brauner (a small coffee with cream/milk), Grosser Brauner (a large coffee with cream/milk), Kurzer (a short espresso), Fiaker (a black coffee served in a tall glass with a shot of cherry rum which will certainly warm you up and keep you going for hours!)
After a long day, the weather was turning much colder and we all made our way across the river to the Mozarteum Restaurant, where we enjoyed a meal of Goulash and Spetzle (Austrian Pasta), with salad and bread, washed down with more beer and wine and followed by a lovely Apple desert. We then made our way to our Oekotel Salzburg, a few kilometers out of the centre of the town - and apart from a silly few who were too excited to sleep, we all enjoyed a warm bed and a good night’s rest after another amazing day of sightseeing, history and European magic!!
Andrew Wailes
We were surprisingly fresh given the night before at the Hofbräuhaus which we put down to the purity of the Bavarian beer… thank goodness for that. Our Munich-born guide assured us that nobody gets hangovers from drinking good Munich beer!
On board the coaches, and off we went for a detailed guided tour of the main sights of Munich. Beginning at the stately Schloss Nymphenburg, the summer palace of the Wittelsbach's. Begun in 1664, this sprawling Italian style villa took more than 150 years to complete. The final palace plan was completed mainly by Elector Max Emanuel, who added four large pavilions in 1702.
Next sight was the huge Munich Olympia park, site of the 1972 Olympic games at the city’s northern edge. Constructed out of rubble left over the bombing during WW1, and partly underground, the park now features extensive landscaping, including ‘mini alps’ which can be used for walking, tobogganing or even skiing. Close by was the new home of BMW – very flash architecture and uber-modern. En route we saw an old air raid shelter, still standing solidly in the snow-covered parklands that surround the city. The main parkland of Munich is the magnificent 18th century ‘Englischer Garten’. Nude sunbathing is allowed in parts of the park, but thankfully it was a tad cold for that, and the only people who could be seen were the rather confused looking Geese and Ducks who were sitting on the frozen lakes!!!
Another superb example of German architecture was the massive and beautiful Bavarian National Museum building, the Bayerisches Nationalmuseum. Established in 1855, this vast building near the Haus der Kunst now contain millions of priceless works of art, including paintings, carvings, sculptures, statues, stained glass and church art.
Next was a sweep past the impressive New Parliament Building, the grand and imposing Bavarian Opera and the 1330 room Rezidenz (Palace) of Munich, which contains no less than 5 concert halls. We then disembarked from our coaches on the steps of the Opera House, and then continued our tour on foot, once again marveling at the Gothic splendor of the Neues Rathaus (City Hall), the Frauenkirche, Alt Peter, City Gate and the hustle and bustle of the Marienplatz. Everyone parted company for a few hours for a last minute shopping frenzy, where many beer steins, hats, postcards, glasses, miniature cuckoo clocks and Bavarian souvenirs were snapped up before we all headed for the famous ‘fisherman’s fountain’ to head back to our coaches for our trip to Salzburg.
On the way, with the Austrian Alps looming majestically in the background, we could not resist the opportunity to watch the Sound of Music… with the scenery so beautiful, and with 80 choristers all still in fairly goo voice, it was lots of fun and a great way to build excitement as we headed to the stunningly beautiful Baroque city known as the ‘Rome of the North’, with its baroque domes, elegant steeples, coloured bell towers and post card scenery.
We soon crossed the border and although we were all sad to have left Germany, we were equally excited to be embarking on the Austrian leg of our tour.
Upon arrival in Salzburg, we embarked upon a walking tour of the Old Town… beginning at Mirabell Palace, which was commissioned to be built by Wolf Dietrich for Salome Alt in 1606. The Mirabell Gardens hold groups of statues based on figures from Greek mythology. The gardens adjoin the Kongresshaus (Congress Center) and the Kurhaus (Paracelsus Health Spa) and are right next to the famous Mozarteum where we would be attending a performance the following day (on Mozart’s Birthday!).
Towering over Salzburg as a silent sentinel for the last thousand years is the Hohensalzburg Fortress, built in 1077 by Archbishop Gebhard. Considerably enlarged by Archbishop Leonhard von Keutschach (1495-1519), the imposing white fortress sits atop a giant mountain of rock, and is the largest, fully-preserved fortress still standing in central Europe.
One of the most beautiful sights in Salzburg is the charming Getreidegasse (main shopping street). This magic is not only generated by the high, narrow houses tightly nestled together, the enticing shops and the wrought iron guild signs, but also to the romantic passageways and courtyards which intersect the street. In Getreidegasse, no. 9 is where the Leopold Mozart family lived from 1747 to 1773. Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was born here on January 27, 1756. Today the rooms once occupied by the Mozart family house a museum. Mozart is everywhere to be seen in Salzburg, so this building is in many ways a spiritual centre of a secular kind in Salzburg.
If Mozart’s birthhouse is the secular heart of the city, then the Dom (Cathedral) is certainly the sacred heart. The original cathedral was built in 774 by St. Virgil (745-784). After a huge fire that devastated the Old Salzburg in 1598, reconstruction of the cathedral commenced in 1614 under Prince Archbishop Markus Sittikus to plans by Santino Solari. The great Italian Baroque style Dom was consecrated in 1628 by Prince Archbishop Paris Lodron and occupies pride of place in the city. A giant green dome and two smaller domes tower above the surrounding buildings, and the bells of the Cathedral can be heard for miles. We were granted a rare chance to perform and record a few short pieces in the Dom, and we certainly enjoyed the incredible acoustics of the building, singing in front of Mozart’s favourite organ (the Cathedral has five significant organs which are all still in use!). The vast baroque paintings and marble carvings, the massive dome and the sheer size of the place is certainly inspiring. The nave can hold some 10,000 people standing and yet, the architecture makes it feel smaller. In any case it is certainly a magnificent building and we were greatly honored to be allowed the chance to perform there.
Next to the Dom is Prince Archbishops Residenz. The medieval bishops' residence was given today's magnificent early Baroque appearance at the end of the 16th century. It has recently been renovated, and it was in this building that the young Wolfgang Mozart gave his first public concert, at the age of 6!
St. Peter’s Abbey and Benedictine Monastery was founded by St. Rupert about the year 700, the latter with romanesque and gothic cloisters. The church is high romanesque converted to late-baroque. Adjoining the church is St. Peter's cemetery, the final resting place of prominent personalities, including the composer Michael Haydn and the sister of Wolfgang Amadeus, Nannerl Mozart. The St. Peter's Cemetery (Petersfriedhof) in Salzburg has a fascinating history. It's one of Europe's oldest cemeteries; the catacombs in the cliff (Moenschberg) behind it date to 215 AD. A small church is also partially contained within the mountain, carved straight out from bare rock.
Another favourite spot was the various cafes which have been an important part of life in Salzburg for centuries and still are. Of particular note are two cafes, which were well frequented by the MUCS contingent: Tomaselli’s (Mozart’s favourite café, and founded in 1705), and Furst’s, immediately across the road (founded in 1805 and home of the original Salzburger MozartKugel.) Coffee in Salzburg is a real tradition, not to be rushed, but always to be enjoyed. We certainly enjoyed the elegant waiters in their dinner suits, the table service and the amazing cakes, but apart from anything else it is the coffee itself that is so great. But not just any old coffee… there are dozens to choose from including: Melange (a normal white coffee), Verlängerter (a large black coffee), Einspänner (a coffee served in a mug, topped with whipped cream and icing sugar; rather lovely!), Kleiner Brauner (a small coffee with cream/milk), Grosser Brauner (a large coffee with cream/milk), Kurzer (a short espresso), Fiaker (a black coffee served in a tall glass with a shot of cherry rum which will certainly warm you up and keep you going for hours!)
After a long day, the weather was turning much colder and we all made our way across the river to the Mozarteum Restaurant, where we enjoyed a meal of Goulash and Spetzle (Austrian Pasta), with salad and bread, washed down with more beer and wine and followed by a lovely Apple desert. We then made our way to our Oekotel Salzburg, a few kilometers out of the centre of the town - and apart from a silly few who were too excited to sleep, we all enjoyed a warm bed and a good night’s rest after another amazing day of sightseeing, history and European magic!!
Andrew Wailes
Tuesday 26 January 2010
Munich – Dachau
January 24 Sunday
We rose early this morning and made our way into the centre of Munich, admiring the city’s impressive monuments, palaces, sporting facilities and churches which line the grand boulevards that sweep into the centre of town. Our wonderful tour guide, the highly entertaining and uber-organized Maritza, is a Munich girl originally, and so we benefitted from a highly detailed commentary about the sights and traditions of Bavaria’s vibrant capital. We headed straight for our concert venue, the Baroque Buergersaalkirche (Citizen’s Assebly Hall Church), now the Marian Men’sCongregation Church of the Annunciation, right in the Heart of downtown Munich. Built in 1710, the building is interesting in that it is actually two churches built above eachother. Whilst relatively modest on the outside, the church itself boasts a magnificent and ornate interior, well lit by natural light and crystal chandeliers and featuring Sistine Chapel-like frescos on the ceiling and gold-covered statues and decorations.
At one end of the church a large three manual organ decorated in the baroque style dominated the huge choir gallery, from which we would sing during the High Mass. After a short rehearsal, the power and magnificence of the instrument became evident, as did the stunning acoustics of the building. We performed a selection of our repertoire, beginning with the bold and dramatic ‘Ecce Saccerdos’ by Anton Bruckner, calling on all our vocal strength to match the huge sound generated by the organ. Other items sang included Leavitt’s Kyrie, Bruckner’s Locus Iste, Mozart’s Ave Verum, Willcock’s Infant Holy, and various other items ending with a fabulous rendition of Rachmaninov’s Bogorodytse Dyevo (Rejoice O Virgin). A completely full church enthusiastically received our performances, and by the end of the Mass, there were around fifty people standing at the back and sides of the Church. Following the postlude, we were invited to move to the front of the chancel steps and then performed a short concert to a capacity audience who greeted our performances of Bruckner, Brahms and other short items with a loud and sustained standing ovation… a rare honour in Germany.
The acoustics of the church were perfect… and allowed us to sing with lots of dynamics and expression. Moments in Bruckner’s Os Justi and Tota Pulchra es Maria were magical, as the sound we made during the great forte passages hung in the air for what seemed like an eternity.
Afterwards we were presented with a relic of the recently Beatified ‘Apostle of Munich’ Father Rupert Mayer SJ, who’s tomb now lies in the lower church, and individual gold medallions and booklets commemorating his life and story. His birthday had fallen the day before, so it was a special time for his church’s congregation. We were presented with these gifts by a senior member of the Church Herr Franz Samuel (and his wife). Their granddaughter has just been accepted into Melbourne University, and they were thrilled by our visit. Like all our hosts, we exchanged gifts of friendship – and our presents of a wooden painted boomerang, calendar, photographic book of Melbourne and some material on MUCS were well received. As we left we were shown the tomb of Rupert Mayer, in the centre of the lower church which featured larger than life sized coloured marble depictions of the Stations of the Cross.
We then headed on foot to the Odeonsplatz, for a formal photograph between the great Lions of Bavaria that look over the Square. On one side stands the striking yellow Church of St Kajetan, known locally as the Theatinerkirche, and on the other the Grand Rezidenz (Munich’s Royal Palace).
We then rugged up and headed off to explore the city independently for a bit before enjoying a hot meal and coffee to prepare us for a cold and stark afternoon in the former Concentration Camp at Dachau. Dachau is actually a picturesque village about 45 mins drive from Munich, and there is virtually nothing to indicate that a compound so tragic and horrific could possibly exist. We walked along the grey gravel road, covered in snow and ice and guarded now only by Silver Birch and Poplar trees. At Dachau, after entering the famous iron gates, we were all reflective as we contemplated the tragedies of WWII, and saw for ourselves just how horrific the concentration camp must have been. The place had an eerie atmosphere, and it seemed colder there than anywhere we have yet been. The buildings that remain are all grey and green, and almost blend into the dull grey gravel that covers the vast recreation area. There is no signage outside, and although many of the buildings and equipment ha now been removed, there are still remnants of the barbed wire and fortified guard towers and defense systems that were once completely surrounding the camp. The gas chambers, crematoriums and dormatories are all now represented by just a few buildings, but nonetheless they give the visitor a clear idea of what it must have been like. An excellent museum depicts some aspects of camp life and conditions in detail, and whilst confronting and emotionally difficult for some, it was a visit many of us felt was an important one. The trip back to Munich on the bus was unusually quiet, and according to our German tour guide, this was not unusual.
Everyone had several hours to think about what we had seen that day, and like so many before us, it was hard to digest.
Our final evening in Germany would be spent in Bavaria, and fittingly we would celebrate good times, with a visit to the famous Hofbräuhaus for dinner, LOTS of beer and traditional Bavarian music, singing and dancing. The Staatliches Hofbräuhaus in München (München) is a brewery in Munich, now owned by the state government. The Hof (court) comes from the brewery's history as a royal brewery in the Kingdom of Bavaria. Wilhelm V., Duke of Bavaria (1579 – 1597), had a thirsty and demanding royal household, which was dissatisfied with the beer brewed in Munich. As a result, beer had to be imported to Munich from the city of Einbeck in Lower Saxony. Wilhelm ordered his royal court to come up with a way to reconcile cost and pleasure. On September 27, 1589, the chamberlains and council members approached him with an idea: why not build their own brewery? Wilhelm welcomed the plan with open arms. As a matter of fact, that same day, he recruited the master brewer of the Geisenfeld Monastery to be the planner, developer and the first “brown” Hofbräuhaus’ master brewer, which went into operation at the “Alter Hof” ( Old Court ) in 1592. It was called the “brown” Hofbräuhaus as only brown ale was brewed there.
Today it is famous the world over, and we enjoyed the colour and atmosphere in the Festival Hall, where we were treated to a Bavarian Feast, as well as folk music played by the Band, folk singing, yodeling and slap dancing! We all got into the mood and joined in the drinking song despite not really knowing the words! Many beers were consumed (the standard size of beer there is one litre!!), and by the end of the night everyone was up dancing and having lots of fun. A few of us then ventured downstairs to the historic beer hall on the first floor of the building, which is considered the heart of the Hofbräuhaus. Here, where Hofbräuhaus beer was once brewed, underneath the cross vaults around 1,500 guests can sit at tables, some of which have been here since 1897 as testified by the many initials, names and comments engraved on them. It’s a tradition to leave your mark, so MUCS did so… thus joining many thousands of student groups who have done so before us.
By now a few of us were starting to look a little the worse for wear, but we were still in party mode, so kept going until we were kicked out! A short walk around the corner and we found a cosy little bar where the last few brave souls finished off the night with some French Champagne and cocktails before hailing a small fleet of taxis and making our way back to the Hotel for a much needed few hours of sleep and lots of water!!!
Andrew Wailes
We rose early this morning and made our way into the centre of Munich, admiring the city’s impressive monuments, palaces, sporting facilities and churches which line the grand boulevards that sweep into the centre of town. Our wonderful tour guide, the highly entertaining and uber-organized Maritza, is a Munich girl originally, and so we benefitted from a highly detailed commentary about the sights and traditions of Bavaria’s vibrant capital. We headed straight for our concert venue, the Baroque Buergersaalkirche (Citizen’s Assebly Hall Church), now the Marian Men’sCongregation Church of the Annunciation, right in the Heart of downtown Munich. Built in 1710, the building is interesting in that it is actually two churches built above eachother. Whilst relatively modest on the outside, the church itself boasts a magnificent and ornate interior, well lit by natural light and crystal chandeliers and featuring Sistine Chapel-like frescos on the ceiling and gold-covered statues and decorations.
At one end of the church a large three manual organ decorated in the baroque style dominated the huge choir gallery, from which we would sing during the High Mass. After a short rehearsal, the power and magnificence of the instrument became evident, as did the stunning acoustics of the building. We performed a selection of our repertoire, beginning with the bold and dramatic ‘Ecce Saccerdos’ by Anton Bruckner, calling on all our vocal strength to match the huge sound generated by the organ. Other items sang included Leavitt’s Kyrie, Bruckner’s Locus Iste, Mozart’s Ave Verum, Willcock’s Infant Holy, and various other items ending with a fabulous rendition of Rachmaninov’s Bogorodytse Dyevo (Rejoice O Virgin). A completely full church enthusiastically received our performances, and by the end of the Mass, there were around fifty people standing at the back and sides of the Church. Following the postlude, we were invited to move to the front of the chancel steps and then performed a short concert to a capacity audience who greeted our performances of Bruckner, Brahms and other short items with a loud and sustained standing ovation… a rare honour in Germany.
The acoustics of the church were perfect… and allowed us to sing with lots of dynamics and expression. Moments in Bruckner’s Os Justi and Tota Pulchra es Maria were magical, as the sound we made during the great forte passages hung in the air for what seemed like an eternity.
Afterwards we were presented with a relic of the recently Beatified ‘Apostle of Munich’ Father Rupert Mayer SJ, who’s tomb now lies in the lower church, and individual gold medallions and booklets commemorating his life and story. His birthday had fallen the day before, so it was a special time for his church’s congregation. We were presented with these gifts by a senior member of the Church Herr Franz Samuel (and his wife). Their granddaughter has just been accepted into Melbourne University, and they were thrilled by our visit. Like all our hosts, we exchanged gifts of friendship – and our presents of a wooden painted boomerang, calendar, photographic book of Melbourne and some material on MUCS were well received. As we left we were shown the tomb of Rupert Mayer, in the centre of the lower church which featured larger than life sized coloured marble depictions of the Stations of the Cross.
We then headed on foot to the Odeonsplatz, for a formal photograph between the great Lions of Bavaria that look over the Square. On one side stands the striking yellow Church of St Kajetan, known locally as the Theatinerkirche, and on the other the Grand Rezidenz (Munich’s Royal Palace).
We then rugged up and headed off to explore the city independently for a bit before enjoying a hot meal and coffee to prepare us for a cold and stark afternoon in the former Concentration Camp at Dachau. Dachau is actually a picturesque village about 45 mins drive from Munich, and there is virtually nothing to indicate that a compound so tragic and horrific could possibly exist. We walked along the grey gravel road, covered in snow and ice and guarded now only by Silver Birch and Poplar trees. At Dachau, after entering the famous iron gates, we were all reflective as we contemplated the tragedies of WWII, and saw for ourselves just how horrific the concentration camp must have been. The place had an eerie atmosphere, and it seemed colder there than anywhere we have yet been. The buildings that remain are all grey and green, and almost blend into the dull grey gravel that covers the vast recreation area. There is no signage outside, and although many of the buildings and equipment ha now been removed, there are still remnants of the barbed wire and fortified guard towers and defense systems that were once completely surrounding the camp. The gas chambers, crematoriums and dormatories are all now represented by just a few buildings, but nonetheless they give the visitor a clear idea of what it must have been like. An excellent museum depicts some aspects of camp life and conditions in detail, and whilst confronting and emotionally difficult for some, it was a visit many of us felt was an important one. The trip back to Munich on the bus was unusually quiet, and according to our German tour guide, this was not unusual.
Everyone had several hours to think about what we had seen that day, and like so many before us, it was hard to digest.
Our final evening in Germany would be spent in Bavaria, and fittingly we would celebrate good times, with a visit to the famous Hofbräuhaus for dinner, LOTS of beer and traditional Bavarian music, singing and dancing. The Staatliches Hofbräuhaus in München (München) is a brewery in Munich, now owned by the state government. The Hof (court) comes from the brewery's history as a royal brewery in the Kingdom of Bavaria. Wilhelm V., Duke of Bavaria (1579 – 1597), had a thirsty and demanding royal household, which was dissatisfied with the beer brewed in Munich. As a result, beer had to be imported to Munich from the city of Einbeck in Lower Saxony. Wilhelm ordered his royal court to come up with a way to reconcile cost and pleasure. On September 27, 1589, the chamberlains and council members approached him with an idea: why not build their own brewery? Wilhelm welcomed the plan with open arms. As a matter of fact, that same day, he recruited the master brewer of the Geisenfeld Monastery to be the planner, developer and the first “brown” Hofbräuhaus’ master brewer, which went into operation at the “Alter Hof” ( Old Court ) in 1592. It was called the “brown” Hofbräuhaus as only brown ale was brewed there.
Today it is famous the world over, and we enjoyed the colour and atmosphere in the Festival Hall, where we were treated to a Bavarian Feast, as well as folk music played by the Band, folk singing, yodeling and slap dancing! We all got into the mood and joined in the drinking song despite not really knowing the words! Many beers were consumed (the standard size of beer there is one litre!!), and by the end of the night everyone was up dancing and having lots of fun. A few of us then ventured downstairs to the historic beer hall on the first floor of the building, which is considered the heart of the Hofbräuhaus. Here, where Hofbräuhaus beer was once brewed, underneath the cross vaults around 1,500 guests can sit at tables, some of which have been here since 1897 as testified by the many initials, names and comments engraved on them. It’s a tradition to leave your mark, so MUCS did so… thus joining many thousands of student groups who have done so before us.
By now a few of us were starting to look a little the worse for wear, but we were still in party mode, so kept going until we were kicked out! A short walk around the corner and we found a cosy little bar where the last few brave souls finished off the night with some French Champagne and cocktails before hailing a small fleet of taxis and making our way back to the Hotel for a much needed few hours of sleep and lots of water!!!
Andrew Wailes
Monday 25 January 2010
Saturday January 23 Rothenberg ob der Tauber – Ulm – Augsburg – Munich
Guten Tag!
After another hearty German breakfast, we once again packed the busses and hit the road. Travelling south, we made for the Danube River and the city of Ulm. There we spent a few hours in the ‘refreshingly brisk’ (ie freezing cold) temperatures exploring the city on foot, visiting some of the sights of this once important commercial river port that has made the city a wealthy one since the Middle Ages. Today, more a centre of scientific and technological research, fitting given that Ulm was the birthplace of Albert Einstein, the city still retains a charm with its old narrow laneways of the Altstadt that wind down to the Danube, as well as its Riverbank promenades, spacious squares and bustling pedestrian zones.
Crossing the little canals that flow through the old ‘Fisherman’s Quarter’ near the River, we were quite surprised to see large trout swimming wild in the shallow waters that zig zag in between (and through) the old medieval houses… reminiscent of Freiburg, the place would be an angler’s paradise. I must say I could easily live somewhere like Ulm where I could hang a line out my kitchen window and catch fresh trout for breakfast!! Aptly named was the old pub ‘Die Forelle’ perched, quite literally above the flowing water!
Another highlight was the magnificent Renaissance Patrician houses and the splendid Gothic Renaissance Rathaus (Town Hall), completely covered in the most glorious murals dating from the mid 16th century. The building itself was built in 1370 as a warehouse but has served since the town hall since 1419. On one side hang the coats of arms of the cities and countries with which Ulm is linked by commerce… on the east side is a splendid astronomical clock from 1520. I for one am amazed that they could build such things so long ago, let alone read them!!! I am still left scratching my head.
If that was impressive, then everything paled into insignificance with the sight of the magnificent towering steeple of Ulm Münster. Its 162 meter (531 feet) steeple is the tallest of any Cathedral in the world, and the church itself is second only to Cologne Cathedral in size. We were told that standing and without the pews, the Ulm Münster can easily accommodate 20,000 people in the nave alone! When it was built (from 1377), it could hold twice the entire population of the City. When Ulm joined the Protestant movement in 1531, work on the building was suspended. Finally in 1844 it recommenced, and was completed in 1890. Though Ulm was bombed in 1944 the building escaped any serious damage, probably due to the amazingly tall spire which served as a landmark for the allied bombers and made it easy to avoid.
The main porch with three massive arches led to two gigantic 15th century doors. This section dates from the 14th and 15th century and is covered in wonderful statues and reliefs depicting scenes from the bible, and the life of various saints.
The five aisles of the cathedral lead directly from the hall below the tower through the massive nave to the east chancel. Huge pillars towering into steep arches enclose each of the five aisles. The ceiling is so high that most of Germany’s church steeples could sit comfortably below it. Even with pews, the Cathedral sits some 12,000 people .
Though the Gothic tower was closed because of ice, we were lucky enough to be treated to a stunning recital on the vast organ that dominates the West end of the building. A thrilling performance of cascading semi-quavers and thunderingly powerful pedal notes filled the vast space with a magical resonance which swirled around the Gothic interior. All agreed that we had been indeed lucky to be there at the right time, and the disappointment of not making it up the 790 steps to the top of the tower was well compensated by the sound inside the Cathedral during our visit.
We then got back on the busses and headed for Bavaria, and its majestic Capital Munich.
We arrived at our Hotel Orly around 4.30pm, and checked in before hitting the S Bahn and heading into the centre of the city, Marienplatz. There we had several hours to explore the city on foot in our own time, getting a glimpse of sights including the magnificent Gothic Neues Rathaus and its famous Glockenspiel, the 15th century Altes Rathaus, the Isartor (Isar Gate), the Frauenkirche and its famous twin domes, and many of the other wonderful buildings and monuments.
A group of us climbed the bell tower of the ‘Old Peter’ Church for stunning views over the Rathaus and city, and enjoyed the slightly unnerving experience of the tower actually rocking when the giant bells in the tower started ringing. Before long all the bels of the city were ringing, and it was certainly a magnificent way to get our bearings in this big exciting city.
Another impressive structure was the ornately decorated Asamkirche, completely covered in Gold and Red Marble carvings. A quick visit to the bustling Viktualienmarkt (old market in the city) for some hot sausages and mustard revived a few of us before we headed to the s Bahn again and made our way back to the Hotel for a well earned hot dinner of pasta with olives and parsley, followed by Pork with rice and a wine and cream sauce, and then Bavarian Apple Cake for desert!
Washed down with a selection of Munich beers and German wines, most were ready for bed after another action-packed day in Germany.
Andrew Wailes
After another hearty German breakfast, we once again packed the busses and hit the road. Travelling south, we made for the Danube River and the city of Ulm. There we spent a few hours in the ‘refreshingly brisk’ (ie freezing cold) temperatures exploring the city on foot, visiting some of the sights of this once important commercial river port that has made the city a wealthy one since the Middle Ages. Today, more a centre of scientific and technological research, fitting given that Ulm was the birthplace of Albert Einstein, the city still retains a charm with its old narrow laneways of the Altstadt that wind down to the Danube, as well as its Riverbank promenades, spacious squares and bustling pedestrian zones.
Crossing the little canals that flow through the old ‘Fisherman’s Quarter’ near the River, we were quite surprised to see large trout swimming wild in the shallow waters that zig zag in between (and through) the old medieval houses… reminiscent of Freiburg, the place would be an angler’s paradise. I must say I could easily live somewhere like Ulm where I could hang a line out my kitchen window and catch fresh trout for breakfast!! Aptly named was the old pub ‘Die Forelle’ perched, quite literally above the flowing water!
Another highlight was the magnificent Renaissance Patrician houses and the splendid Gothic Renaissance Rathaus (Town Hall), completely covered in the most glorious murals dating from the mid 16th century. The building itself was built in 1370 as a warehouse but has served since the town hall since 1419. On one side hang the coats of arms of the cities and countries with which Ulm is linked by commerce… on the east side is a splendid astronomical clock from 1520. I for one am amazed that they could build such things so long ago, let alone read them!!! I am still left scratching my head.
If that was impressive, then everything paled into insignificance with the sight of the magnificent towering steeple of Ulm Münster. Its 162 meter (531 feet) steeple is the tallest of any Cathedral in the world, and the church itself is second only to Cologne Cathedral in size. We were told that standing and without the pews, the Ulm Münster can easily accommodate 20,000 people in the nave alone! When it was built (from 1377), it could hold twice the entire population of the City. When Ulm joined the Protestant movement in 1531, work on the building was suspended. Finally in 1844 it recommenced, and was completed in 1890. Though Ulm was bombed in 1944 the building escaped any serious damage, probably due to the amazingly tall spire which served as a landmark for the allied bombers and made it easy to avoid.
The main porch with three massive arches led to two gigantic 15th century doors. This section dates from the 14th and 15th century and is covered in wonderful statues and reliefs depicting scenes from the bible, and the life of various saints.
The five aisles of the cathedral lead directly from the hall below the tower through the massive nave to the east chancel. Huge pillars towering into steep arches enclose each of the five aisles. The ceiling is so high that most of Germany’s church steeples could sit comfortably below it. Even with pews, the Cathedral sits some 12,000 people .
Though the Gothic tower was closed because of ice, we were lucky enough to be treated to a stunning recital on the vast organ that dominates the West end of the building. A thrilling performance of cascading semi-quavers and thunderingly powerful pedal notes filled the vast space with a magical resonance which swirled around the Gothic interior. All agreed that we had been indeed lucky to be there at the right time, and the disappointment of not making it up the 790 steps to the top of the tower was well compensated by the sound inside the Cathedral during our visit.
We then got back on the busses and headed for Bavaria, and its majestic Capital Munich.
We arrived at our Hotel Orly around 4.30pm, and checked in before hitting the S Bahn and heading into the centre of the city, Marienplatz. There we had several hours to explore the city on foot in our own time, getting a glimpse of sights including the magnificent Gothic Neues Rathaus and its famous Glockenspiel, the 15th century Altes Rathaus, the Isartor (Isar Gate), the Frauenkirche and its famous twin domes, and many of the other wonderful buildings and monuments.
A group of us climbed the bell tower of the ‘Old Peter’ Church for stunning views over the Rathaus and city, and enjoyed the slightly unnerving experience of the tower actually rocking when the giant bells in the tower started ringing. Before long all the bels of the city were ringing, and it was certainly a magnificent way to get our bearings in this big exciting city.
Another impressive structure was the ornately decorated Asamkirche, completely covered in Gold and Red Marble carvings. A quick visit to the bustling Viktualienmarkt (old market in the city) for some hot sausages and mustard revived a few of us before we headed to the s Bahn again and made our way back to the Hotel for a well earned hot dinner of pasta with olives and parsley, followed by Pork with rice and a wine and cream sauce, and then Bavarian Apple Cake for desert!
Washed down with a selection of Munich beers and German wines, most were ready for bed after another action-packed day in Germany.
Andrew Wailes
Thursday 21 January Stuttgart – Bad Mergentheim – Rothenberg ob der Tauber
Early morning start today, so we all got up early with our hosts and made our various ways to the Stuttgart University Central Campus where our busses were waiting for us. Stuttgart is a very hilly city, completely surrounded by steep hills and wineyards, which means that many houses are set atop steep climbs of stairs, so many of us got our morning excercise before we had even got on the bus!
Travelling along the Romantic Road, we made our way to the spa city of Bad Mergentheim. The former town of the Residence of the Grand and German Masters of the Order of the Teutonic nights, the town is now famous for its Castle of the Teutonic Order, and the Solymar Bathing and Wellness Park.
It was here that we presented a concert in the Wandelhalle of the Spa Bad Mergentheim, a bright, glass enclosed concert hall for around five hundred people, with modern stage and striking glass chandeliers. Here we presented an afternoon one hour program, accompanied by piano as opposed to organ. Any concerns about getting an audience were soon dismissed, as we began singing to a full house... mainly wealthy German Seniors Citizens who were taking the waters of the famous health retreat. The crowd loved the concert and gave a generous ovation both before and after the program, ensuring thatevery single person received applause as they entered and left the stage. They were generous in other ways too... we received EURO $700 for program donations alone! This was a great relief, given the $1000 charges to get the programs to Europe in te first place!!!
After the concert we were treated to a private visit to the drinking room, where marble fountains of various thermal waters poured at different temperatures. These ranged from a tepid, flat mineral water, to a hot extremely salty potion which is apparently very good for one’s digestive system but so good that we were advised not to drink too much given we had a long trip on the bus ahead of us!!! Given the revolting taste, there was little chance of that happening, but nevertheless we were all keen to try a taste for ourselves.
We then continued along the Romantic Road, travelling through the towns of Weikersheim, Röttingen, and Creglingen, before reaching our destination of Rothenberg ob der Tauber. En route, we enjoyed a few hours in the City of Würtzburg, traditionally the firsat major town on the Romantic Road Route, and considered to be one of Germany’s lovliest baroque cities. With a population of some 50,000 students, this „ town of the Madonnas“ because of the more than 100 statues of its Patron Saint that adorn the houise fronts there.
It was amazing to think that on March 16, 1945 the city was devestated by a massive allied bombing air raid which killed some 50,000 people in a few hours. In a miraculoyus rebuilding program, nearly every major structure was salvaged and restored, retaining the original look and layout of the city.
Watched over by its great landmark, the Marienburg Fortress, the university and the congress city on the River Main is also surrounded by vineyards and is considered to be the capital of the Franconian Wine district.
We disembarked from the coaches right opposite the impressive former Prince Bishop’s Residence (a UNIESCO World Heritage Building). The last and finest in a great line of baroque castles built in Bavaria in the 17th century, this beautiful horseshoe shaped palace was begun in 1720 and is certainly one of the most beautiful palaces we have so far experienced. It provided a lavish backdrop for a group photo in front of the huge bronze statue at the front of the structure.
Exploring the town on foot, we had the chance to see buildings such as the Cathedral of St Kilian (begun in 1045 and the fourth largest romanesque cathedral in Germany), the New Minster, St Mary’s Chapel, the bustling Market Place and the beautiful old bridge over the River Main, adorned with many larger than life sandstone statues of German Saints.
By the time we got back on the busses, it was getting gloomy and the temperature was falling fast, so we enjoyed the warmth of our vehicles on the last leg of our journey, to the ancient medieval city of Rothenberg ob der (above the) Tauber. We checked in to the Rothenberger Hof, a rambling, family owned hotel right in the middle of the new part of the City, directly opposite the Bahnhof, and a few short minutes walk from the famous city walls that enclose the perfectly-preserved Altstadt of this famous former Free Imperial City, which dates from around the year 804.
Andrew Wailes
Travelling along the Romantic Road, we made our way to the spa city of Bad Mergentheim. The former town of the Residence of the Grand and German Masters of the Order of the Teutonic nights, the town is now famous for its Castle of the Teutonic Order, and the Solymar Bathing and Wellness Park.
It was here that we presented a concert in the Wandelhalle of the Spa Bad Mergentheim, a bright, glass enclosed concert hall for around five hundred people, with modern stage and striking glass chandeliers. Here we presented an afternoon one hour program, accompanied by piano as opposed to organ. Any concerns about getting an audience were soon dismissed, as we began singing to a full house... mainly wealthy German Seniors Citizens who were taking the waters of the famous health retreat. The crowd loved the concert and gave a generous ovation both before and after the program, ensuring thatevery single person received applause as they entered and left the stage. They were generous in other ways too... we received EURO $700 for program donations alone! This was a great relief, given the $1000 charges to get the programs to Europe in te first place!!!
After the concert we were treated to a private visit to the drinking room, where marble fountains of various thermal waters poured at different temperatures. These ranged from a tepid, flat mineral water, to a hot extremely salty potion which is apparently very good for one’s digestive system but so good that we were advised not to drink too much given we had a long trip on the bus ahead of us!!! Given the revolting taste, there was little chance of that happening, but nevertheless we were all keen to try a taste for ourselves.
We then continued along the Romantic Road, travelling through the towns of Weikersheim, Röttingen, and Creglingen, before reaching our destination of Rothenberg ob der Tauber. En route, we enjoyed a few hours in the City of Würtzburg, traditionally the firsat major town on the Romantic Road Route, and considered to be one of Germany’s lovliest baroque cities. With a population of some 50,000 students, this „ town of the Madonnas“ because of the more than 100 statues of its Patron Saint that adorn the houise fronts there.
It was amazing to think that on March 16, 1945 the city was devestated by a massive allied bombing air raid which killed some 50,000 people in a few hours. In a miraculoyus rebuilding program, nearly every major structure was salvaged and restored, retaining the original look and layout of the city.
Watched over by its great landmark, the Marienburg Fortress, the university and the congress city on the River Main is also surrounded by vineyards and is considered to be the capital of the Franconian Wine district.
We disembarked from the coaches right opposite the impressive former Prince Bishop’s Residence (a UNIESCO World Heritage Building). The last and finest in a great line of baroque castles built in Bavaria in the 17th century, this beautiful horseshoe shaped palace was begun in 1720 and is certainly one of the most beautiful palaces we have so far experienced. It provided a lavish backdrop for a group photo in front of the huge bronze statue at the front of the structure.
Exploring the town on foot, we had the chance to see buildings such as the Cathedral of St Kilian (begun in 1045 and the fourth largest romanesque cathedral in Germany), the New Minster, St Mary’s Chapel, the bustling Market Place and the beautiful old bridge over the River Main, adorned with many larger than life sandstone statues of German Saints.
By the time we got back on the busses, it was getting gloomy and the temperature was falling fast, so we enjoyed the warmth of our vehicles on the last leg of our journey, to the ancient medieval city of Rothenberg ob der (above the) Tauber. We checked in to the Rothenberger Hof, a rambling, family owned hotel right in the middle of the new part of the City, directly opposite the Bahnhof, and a few short minutes walk from the famous city walls that enclose the perfectly-preserved Altstadt of this famous former Free Imperial City, which dates from around the year 804.
Andrew Wailes
Friday 22 January 2010
More from the tour
I apologise that the last few days of blog entries are missing... mainly due to technical issues of internet connection, and also to the fact that the author has been having so much fun that by the time he gets a few minutes to type up his notes he falls asleep!!!! These should be up within the next 24 hours, albeit a few days late! In the meantime Rod has been putting up some very spiffy photos for you to enjoy (thanks Rod!), and to assure you that we have as yet not managed to lose anyone. Paul tried to test the thickness of the ice in a Stuttgart lake that was (only partly) frozen over, but he managed to survive without going under, despite a few threatening cracking sounds, but thats about as far as we have gone to losing anyone yet!!! I suspect there are quite a few of us who are having such a great time we might not want to return to Australia when the time comes...
Friday 22 January Rothenburg ob der Tauber – Nördlingen - Dinkelsbühl – Rothenberg
Everyone enjoyed a bit of a sleep in today... after a BIG night in Stuttgart for many of us, and MANY litres of Swabian beer consumed into the wee small hours!!!
After yet another fantastic German breakfast (hot eggs, lots of meat, beautiful fresh bread rolls, cheeses, fruit, yogurt, cereal for those who like it, lots of juices and big jugs of thick hot coffee and cream), most set off on foot in their own time to explore the amazingly preserved Medieval city of Rothenburg ob der Tauber.
Rothenburg ob der Tauber is a beautiful little town on the Romantic Road, and for tourists (like us!) interested in seeing an intact, walled medieval city, the epitome of German towns. The Altstadt (old town) of Rothenburg is a patchwork of winding cobbled lanes lined with picturesque half timbered houses, brightly painted and decorated with ornate brass and iron signs which are themselves often worthy of a photograph or an adoring stare.
Massive towers like Röderturm and the intact city walls form a complete ring around Rothenburg and you can walk around these massive fortified walls to get great views over the city and the Tauber valley.
What makes Rothenburg ob der Tauber even more exciting is its reputation as town of eternal Christmas. All year round lots of shops offer beautiful handcrafted Christmas gifts and and crafted wood carvings and souvenirs. In December the town gets realy crowded, because nobody wants to miss the famous Christmas Market, one of the most romantic ones in Germany. Thankfully being here in January it is really quite, and many of us enjoyed a quiet stroll through the cobbled streets and spent time browsing in the quaint shops, many of which were crammed with the most beautiful toys and decorations.
Many of us walked beyond the Plönlein, that scenic fork in the road which is the landmark of Rothenburg, and one of the famous sights of the town. Though deserted, the market place and the Rathaus (aptly named Renaissance Town Hall) provided another scenic highlight. Another was the idyllic Burggarten (Rothenburg castle garden). Covered in a blanket of snow, and with mist rising in the valley below the castle walls it was a scene straight from a Fairy Tale. The western side of he historic square is dominated by the soaring gable of the Ratsherrntrinkstube (councillor’s drinking room) which dates from 1446 and features a remarkable sundial and ornate town clock which was erected in 1683. At 11am a group of us was lucky enough to watch the small windows either side of the clock open and as the bells rang, life sized wooden carvings of tow important figures who, according to legend, saved the town in 1631 when a city councillor rescued the town by taking the challenge to empty 3 1/4 liter of wine in one gulp!
A major pilgrimage site of Rothenburg is the splendid gothic church St.Jacob. Its main attraction is the Heilige Blut Altar (Holy Blood Altar) carved by Tilman Riemenschneider, said to contain drops of Christ's blood, collected at the time of the crucifixion.
In the afternoon we travelled along the ‘Romantic Road’ to visit several other of the famed walled cities of the region. First we visited Nördlingen, which was fascinating as it was originally built on the side of a giant meteorite crater. Apart from that it is the only completely intact Medieval city in Germany with high walls that can be walked all the way around. The historical old town is dominated by the stunning late Gothic hall church of St George, with its imposing 90 metre high bell tower (named ’Daniel’), which for those brave enough to climb it proved quite a challenge in sub zero temperatures!
Next stop was the small town of Dinkelsbühl, on the River Wörnitz. Ringed by 10th century walls, gateways and towers including the 14th century gateway the Rothenberger Tor, the impressive town is characterised by splendid early Renaissance burghers’ houses (even more impressive than those of Rothenberg or Nördlingen), beautiful decorated half-timber buildings, busy town squares and enchanting little laneways. In the middle of the town the lte Gothic Minster (also dedicated to St George) stands. Built in 1448-1499 the church has an incredibly high nave, and even though the tower rises 62 metres, it seems small. This is probably because the tower is from the original church, built in 1225. Inside the church, six impressive side altars date from the time of when the church was completed.
After tasty hot Goulashsuppe and bread, hot coffee and warm appelstrudel, we all walked back to the bus to return to Rothenberg, passing through the Romantic Road cities of Feuchtwangen and Schillingsfürst, before hitting the Rothenberger Hof Restaurant bar for German wines, beers and the ever-present Appelsaft and a lovely hot meal of soup, followed by roasted chicken with potatoes, tomatos and peppers and a pear and cream desert with chocolate sauce. Then it was time to put on all our warm clothes, hats, scarfs and gloves and walk back into the Old Town of Rothenburg to meet the Nightwatchman. Dressed all in black in his medieval cloak, and hat, and bearing his long axe and candle lantern, he proceeded to give us an unforgettable guided tour of the old city, its castle, walls, and important sights. He was a brilliant tour guide, and with the crunch of snow and ice below our feet, the total darkness enveloping the softly-illuminated buildings and about -4 degrees, it was most atmospheric as we were told of the fascinating history of the city, medieval life, wars, plagues, and some of the famous characters of the town.
The night ended with an impromptu performance (suitably in Latin) of MUCS’ favourite song, Laudate Nomen Domini... written about the same time as some of the buildings were were surrounded by!!! In the darkness and the ancient surrounds , the Latin words seemed to fit nicely as we huddled in the shadow of the magnificent Gothic nave of the St Jacobskirche. All agreed it was a fantastic and magical night.
Back to the warm and inviting bar at the Rothenburger Hof, and then to our warm beds. Much needed as the outside temperatures begin to plumet well below zero. That said, we are all getting used to the cold temperatures, and with a fine day and no wind during most of the day, it began to feel almost balmy !!!
Andrew Wailes
Friday 22 January Rothenburg ob der Tauber – Nördlingen - Dinkelsbühl – Rothenberg
Everyone enjoyed a bit of a sleep in today... after a BIG night in Stuttgart for many of us, and MANY litres of Swabian beer consumed into the wee small hours!!!
After yet another fantastic German breakfast (hot eggs, lots of meat, beautiful fresh bread rolls, cheeses, fruit, yogurt, cereal for those who like it, lots of juices and big jugs of thick hot coffee and cream), most set off on foot in their own time to explore the amazingly preserved Medieval city of Rothenburg ob der Tauber.
Rothenburg ob der Tauber is a beautiful little town on the Romantic Road, and for tourists (like us!) interested in seeing an intact, walled medieval city, the epitome of German towns. The Altstadt (old town) of Rothenburg is a patchwork of winding cobbled lanes lined with picturesque half timbered houses, brightly painted and decorated with ornate brass and iron signs which are themselves often worthy of a photograph or an adoring stare.
Massive towers like Röderturm and the intact city walls form a complete ring around Rothenburg and you can walk around these massive fortified walls to get great views over the city and the Tauber valley.
What makes Rothenburg ob der Tauber even more exciting is its reputation as town of eternal Christmas. All year round lots of shops offer beautiful handcrafted Christmas gifts and and crafted wood carvings and souvenirs. In December the town gets realy crowded, because nobody wants to miss the famous Christmas Market, one of the most romantic ones in Germany. Thankfully being here in January it is really quite, and many of us enjoyed a quiet stroll through the cobbled streets and spent time browsing in the quaint shops, many of which were crammed with the most beautiful toys and decorations.
Many of us walked beyond the Plönlein, that scenic fork in the road which is the landmark of Rothenburg, and one of the famous sights of the town. Though deserted, the market place and the Rathaus (aptly named Renaissance Town Hall) provided another scenic highlight. Another was the idyllic Burggarten (Rothenburg castle garden). Covered in a blanket of snow, and with mist rising in the valley below the castle walls it was a scene straight from a Fairy Tale. The western side of he historic square is dominated by the soaring gable of the Ratsherrntrinkstube (councillor’s drinking room) which dates from 1446 and features a remarkable sundial and ornate town clock which was erected in 1683. At 11am a group of us was lucky enough to watch the small windows either side of the clock open and as the bells rang, life sized wooden carvings of tow important figures who, according to legend, saved the town in 1631 when a city councillor rescued the town by taking the challenge to empty 3 1/4 liter of wine in one gulp!
A major pilgrimage site of Rothenburg is the splendid gothic church St.Jacob. Its main attraction is the Heilige Blut Altar (Holy Blood Altar) carved by Tilman Riemenschneider, said to contain drops of Christ's blood, collected at the time of the crucifixion.
In the afternoon we travelled along the ‘Romantic Road’ to visit several other of the famed walled cities of the region. First we visited Nördlingen, which was fascinating as it was originally built on the side of a giant meteorite crater. Apart from that it is the only completely intact Medieval city in Germany with high walls that can be walked all the way around. The historical old town is dominated by the stunning late Gothic hall church of St George, with its imposing 90 metre high bell tower (named ’Daniel’), which for those brave enough to climb it proved quite a challenge in sub zero temperatures!
Next stop was the small town of Dinkelsbühl, on the River Wörnitz. Ringed by 10th century walls, gateways and towers including the 14th century gateway the Rothenberger Tor, the impressive town is characterised by splendid early Renaissance burghers’ houses (even more impressive than those of Rothenberg or Nördlingen), beautiful decorated half-timber buildings, busy town squares and enchanting little laneways. In the middle of the town the lte Gothic Minster (also dedicated to St George) stands. Built in 1448-1499 the church has an incredibly high nave, and even though the tower rises 62 metres, it seems small. This is probably because the tower is from the original church, built in 1225. Inside the church, six impressive side altars date from the time of when the church was completed.
After tasty hot Goulashsuppe and bread, hot coffee and warm appelstrudel, we all walked back to the bus to return to Rothenberg, passing through the Romantic Road cities of Feuchtwangen and Schillingsfürst, before hitting the Rothenberger Hof Restaurant bar for German wines, beers and the ever-present Appelsaft and a lovely hot meal of soup, followed by roasted chicken with potatoes, tomatos and peppers and a pear and cream desert with chocolate sauce. Then it was time to put on all our warm clothes, hats, scarfs and gloves and walk back into the Old Town of Rothenburg to meet the Nightwatchman. Dressed all in black in his medieval cloak, and hat, and bearing his long axe and candle lantern, he proceeded to give us an unforgettable guided tour of the old city, its castle, walls, and important sights. He was a brilliant tour guide, and with the crunch of snow and ice below our feet, the total darkness enveloping the softly-illuminated buildings and about -4 degrees, it was most atmospheric as we were told of the fascinating history of the city, medieval life, wars, plagues, and some of the famous characters of the town.
The night ended with an impromptu performance (suitably in Latin) of MUCS’ favourite song, Laudate Nomen Domini... written about the same time as some of the buildings were were surrounded by!!! In the darkness and the ancient surrounds , the Latin words seemed to fit nicely as we huddled in the shadow of the magnificent Gothic nave of the St Jacobskirche. All agreed it was a fantastic and magical night.
Back to the warm and inviting bar at the Rothenburger Hof, and then to our warm beds. Much needed as the outside temperatures begin to plumet well below zero. That said, we are all getting used to the cold temperatures, and with a fine day and no wind during most of the day, it began to feel almost balmy !!!
Andrew Wailes
Jan 17 Sunday Schriesheim – Worms
Light rain was falling when we woke at six thirty am to begin preparations for our first major performance, the High Mass in the Imperial Cathedral of St Peter, Worms. About an hour away from Shriesheim, the sun was not up when we left, and winding our way along the Neckar Valley until we hit the Autobahn, we quickly made our way to the former sight of the famous Diet and place of the beginning of Martin Luther’s Protestant Reformation.
Worms Cathedral is one of the oldest and largest Cathedrals in Europe, and one of the three great Cathedrals along the Rhine River. Standing proudly above the City of Worms for the last one thousand years, it is an imposing structure, built in red sandstone and designed in the Romanesque style, with massive spires and domes and a tall, and massive nave much larger than any church we have seen in Australia. Upon entering the Kaiserdom (Imperial Cathedral) we were all struck by the magnitude of the building… The cathedral is about 120 m long, and 40 m wide. The height in the nave is about 30 m; under the domes it is 40 metres, so you can imagine the acoustics of the building… one of the most stunning acoustics I have ever had the pleasure of performing in. The side walls are decorated with Romanesque and Gothic reliefs showing Christ’s life. Also, a lot of small chapels are added into the outer naves, but only some are open for prayers. A famous one is Nikolauskapelle (near the main gate), where a relic of St. Nikolaus is treasured. The side walls do have very nice stained glass windows, one of them is a storytelling window and tells about all events that happened in Worms in the past.
The choir’s performances of Schubert, Bruckner, Rachmaninov and Mozart were certainly enhanced by a 5 to 6 second echo that rang with a rare clarity and did not ever become muddy or distorted. Two excellent organs accompanied our singing… a significant 2 manual instrument behind the choir, and a huge romantic 3 manual instrument perched high above the nave in the middle of the Cathedral.
The Cathedral was the scene of several milestones of European history. In 1048, Bruno of Egisheim-Dagsburg was elected pope Leo IX here; in 1122, the Concordate of Worms ended the Investiture Contest, the struggle for supremacy between the emperor and the Church; and in 1521, Martin Luther was summoned by emperor Charles V to recant his teachings before the Diet of Worms, a historic assembly that was to change the history of Christianity.
The Cathedral is the burial site for the ancestors and members of the Salian dynasty, who had a castle in Worms until in the 11th century. In the Middle Ages, emperors paid the Cathedral numerous visits, and in the church or in its immediate surroundings, important political events took place, some of them sparking serious aftermaths.
The spectacular Baroque high altar by Balthasar Neumann was built after the city’s devastation in 1689, and is a breathtaking example of craftsmanship... covered in pure gold, and soaring high above the main altar. Another feature were the incredible hand carved choir stalls, also decorated with gold leaf, and featuring hundreds of faces of religious figures, instruments, angels and bishops.
Following the Mass, which was atended by about three or four hundred people, ended with a sustained ovation. Certainly it was a great way to start our tour.
We then changed into our warmer clothes and headed to various cafes and restaurants for warm coffee, gluwein and soups, chocolate cakes, and baked pastas to charge our batteries before we enjoyed a walking tour of the sights of Worms. Upon meeting our tour guides, we explored the ancient German city on foot, visiting sights including the oldest jewish synagogue in Germany. The city is known as a former center for Judaism. The Jewish community was established in the late 10th century, the first synagogue was erected in 1034. The Jewish Cemetary in Worms dating from the 11th century, is believed to be the oldest in Europe The Rashi Shul, a synagogue dating from 1175 and carefully reconstructed after its desecration on 'Crystal Night' is the oldest in Germany.
We also visited the Luther Memorial. In the year 1868, the world’s largest Reformation memorial was unveiled, created by Ernst Rietschel. Donations from Lutherans all over the world had helped to build the monument, which was set up in a park laid out in the former city moat. It the castle-shaped monument (inspired by Luther’s song A Mighty Fortress Is Our God), the history of the Reformation is told from pre-Reformation times to the 19th century. The statue of Martin Luther is posted in the centre, with forerunners of the Reformation at his foot. The embattlements are crowned with statues of noted contemporaries of Luther. Between them, allegorical figures represent cities that played a major role in the aftermath of the Reformation.
Another sight visited was the Trinity Church. After the city had been destroyed by a devastating blaze in 1689, the Lutherans of Worms build the baroque-style Trinity Church as a Reformation memorial church, seeking to outrival the Cathedral, which had remained Catholic. It was erected on the place of the Mint, which had also been destroyed in 1689, and which was—erroneously—believed to be the spot where ‘Luther professed his words’ (laying of the foundation stone 1709, consecration 1725). It is the city’s largest baroque church and as for its history the main church of the city’s Protestants. After the church had been heavily damaged in the second world war, works to restore the interior of the church in a modern way were finished in 1959.
Erected in 1905, the Hagen statue is one of the most popular monuments of the city. The bronze sculpture by the riverside reminds us of Hagen throwing the legendary treasure of the Nibelungen in the floods of the Rhine. The famous Nibelungenlied is set here in this city, and it is the starting point of the so-called ‘Nibelungen route’, the itinerary the Nibelungen followed on their way eastwards to Hungary, where they finally met their fate at king Attila’s court.
After Worms, we returned to our Hotel, for a night of drinking, singing, laughing and general noisiness... it was really great to see everyone, young and old, having such a fantastic time and getting on so well. This really is a great group of people to tour with.
Andrew Wailes
Worms Cathedral is one of the oldest and largest Cathedrals in Europe, and one of the three great Cathedrals along the Rhine River. Standing proudly above the City of Worms for the last one thousand years, it is an imposing structure, built in red sandstone and designed in the Romanesque style, with massive spires and domes and a tall, and massive nave much larger than any church we have seen in Australia. Upon entering the Kaiserdom (Imperial Cathedral) we were all struck by the magnitude of the building… The cathedral is about 120 m long, and 40 m wide. The height in the nave is about 30 m; under the domes it is 40 metres, so you can imagine the acoustics of the building… one of the most stunning acoustics I have ever had the pleasure of performing in. The side walls are decorated with Romanesque and Gothic reliefs showing Christ’s life. Also, a lot of small chapels are added into the outer naves, but only some are open for prayers. A famous one is Nikolauskapelle (near the main gate), where a relic of St. Nikolaus is treasured. The side walls do have very nice stained glass windows, one of them is a storytelling window and tells about all events that happened in Worms in the past.
The choir’s performances of Schubert, Bruckner, Rachmaninov and Mozart were certainly enhanced by a 5 to 6 second echo that rang with a rare clarity and did not ever become muddy or distorted. Two excellent organs accompanied our singing… a significant 2 manual instrument behind the choir, and a huge romantic 3 manual instrument perched high above the nave in the middle of the Cathedral.
The Cathedral was the scene of several milestones of European history. In 1048, Bruno of Egisheim-Dagsburg was elected pope Leo IX here; in 1122, the Concordate of Worms ended the Investiture Contest, the struggle for supremacy between the emperor and the Church; and in 1521, Martin Luther was summoned by emperor Charles V to recant his teachings before the Diet of Worms, a historic assembly that was to change the history of Christianity.
The Cathedral is the burial site for the ancestors and members of the Salian dynasty, who had a castle in Worms until in the 11th century. In the Middle Ages, emperors paid the Cathedral numerous visits, and in the church or in its immediate surroundings, important political events took place, some of them sparking serious aftermaths.
The spectacular Baroque high altar by Balthasar Neumann was built after the city’s devastation in 1689, and is a breathtaking example of craftsmanship... covered in pure gold, and soaring high above the main altar. Another feature were the incredible hand carved choir stalls, also decorated with gold leaf, and featuring hundreds of faces of religious figures, instruments, angels and bishops.
Following the Mass, which was atended by about three or four hundred people, ended with a sustained ovation. Certainly it was a great way to start our tour.
We then changed into our warmer clothes and headed to various cafes and restaurants for warm coffee, gluwein and soups, chocolate cakes, and baked pastas to charge our batteries before we enjoyed a walking tour of the sights of Worms. Upon meeting our tour guides, we explored the ancient German city on foot, visiting sights including the oldest jewish synagogue in Germany. The city is known as a former center for Judaism. The Jewish community was established in the late 10th century, the first synagogue was erected in 1034. The Jewish Cemetary in Worms dating from the 11th century, is believed to be the oldest in Europe The Rashi Shul, a synagogue dating from 1175 and carefully reconstructed after its desecration on 'Crystal Night' is the oldest in Germany.
We also visited the Luther Memorial. In the year 1868, the world’s largest Reformation memorial was unveiled, created by Ernst Rietschel. Donations from Lutherans all over the world had helped to build the monument, which was set up in a park laid out in the former city moat. It the castle-shaped monument (inspired by Luther’s song A Mighty Fortress Is Our God), the history of the Reformation is told from pre-Reformation times to the 19th century. The statue of Martin Luther is posted in the centre, with forerunners of the Reformation at his foot. The embattlements are crowned with statues of noted contemporaries of Luther. Between them, allegorical figures represent cities that played a major role in the aftermath of the Reformation.
Another sight visited was the Trinity Church. After the city had been destroyed by a devastating blaze in 1689, the Lutherans of Worms build the baroque-style Trinity Church as a Reformation memorial church, seeking to outrival the Cathedral, which had remained Catholic. It was erected on the place of the Mint, which had also been destroyed in 1689, and which was—erroneously—believed to be the spot where ‘Luther professed his words’ (laying of the foundation stone 1709, consecration 1725). It is the city’s largest baroque church and as for its history the main church of the city’s Protestants. After the church had been heavily damaged in the second world war, works to restore the interior of the church in a modern way were finished in 1959.
Erected in 1905, the Hagen statue is one of the most popular monuments of the city. The bronze sculpture by the riverside reminds us of Hagen throwing the legendary treasure of the Nibelungen in the floods of the Rhine. The famous Nibelungenlied is set here in this city, and it is the starting point of the so-called ‘Nibelungen route’, the itinerary the Nibelungen followed on their way eastwards to Hungary, where they finally met their fate at king Attila’s court.
After Worms, we returned to our Hotel, for a night of drinking, singing, laughing and general noisiness... it was really great to see everyone, young and old, having such a fantastic time and getting on so well. This really is a great group of people to tour with.
Andrew Wailes
Sunday 17 January 2010
MUCS 70th Anniversary Tour
written by Andrew Wailes
Our Etihad flight from Melbourne to Abu Dhabi was excellent. Brilliant food, excellent service, smooth flight and very comfortable. I actually managed to sleep more than I ever have before on a long haul flight, but that was probably due to the handful of valerian tablets I dosed myself up with after dinner!
We arrived in Abu Dhabi at dawn after a 15 hour flight. Brand new airport… the Arabs don’t muck around. Everything that opens and shuts, clean and efficient, and the fastest exit I have ever experienced in an international airport.
6 of us were on the flight and we were expecting to pay for a visa to be allowed to exit the airport, but were very pleased when we were told by the border guards that we were free to enter the city as long as we returned in time for our flight… hey stamped our passports, waved us through and no charge! Excellent.
I arranged for a mini bus to collect us – brand new Mercedes complete with soft leather seats etc, and we hit the Abu Dhabi expressway… no lights, boredered by green lawns and thousands of massive Palm trees, and a totally straight road with no speed limits. We were flying along at 155 kms an hour in no time!
First thing that struck us was the sky… a glowing red/pink colour, with the Moon, stars and Sun all present at once. Quite beautiful. The second thing was how flat it all was, we were surrounded by desert sands. Abu Dhabi is the capital city of, and the second largest city in the United Arab Emirates. It lies on a T-shaped island jutting into the Persian Gulf from the central western coast. The entire city has been built during my own lifetime which is hard to believe… basically all the creation of Sheik Zayed who only recently died.
Our first stop was down town Abu Dhabi, and its magnificent skyscrapers, reclaimed islands, water front marinas and beaches, and vast shopping malls. We had a coffee in the Marina Mall as it as just opening and visited the top of the Marina Mall Tower, a massive tower with a revolving glass restaurant at the top with breathtaking views over the city.
We then spent some time on the beach, but were getting too hot so then headed for the Sheik Zayed Mosque, otherwise known as The Great Mosque.
The Sheik Zayed Mosque, is a stunningly beautiful building, with white marble domes which can be seen from far across Abu Dhabi, and as you enter the city from the airport. We arrived as the fire-like sun was rising above the Arabian desert in a red sky, and seeing this sensual group of massive white marble domes & towers illuminated under the soft-coloured sky was beautiful...you really felt like you were in an exotic far away place...
The Great Mosque has only been opened for about a year, having taken 13 years to complete. It is the 2nd or 3rd largest mosque in the world, covering 22,000 sq metres, and its surrounding grounds about the equivalent to 5 football grounds. Sheik Zayed (the Arab Sheik who basically created the city of Abu Dhabi the year I was born) has his grave here in a separate enclosure, strictly guarded and with musilim prayers constantly chanted over huge set of speakers, and strictly no cameras allowed. Visitors like myself are however allowed to visit the main mosque, and the outside if the building is as massive as it is beautiful. Made of pure white marble and gold, and surrounded by bright blue reflective pools, the building reminds me of a cross between the Kremlin Cathedrals and the great Taj Mahal. Inside is as stunning as the outside, vast spaces, domes, thousands of massive columns of white marble inlaid with mother of pearl and semi precious stones, extravagant overisized chandeliers, (7 in all, including the largest in the world, shipped in from Germany, adorned in 24 carot gold & covered in thousands of dazzling swarovski crystals). The main space is covered in an elaborate carpet, handwoven by 1,200 Iranian women, again the largest hand woven carpet in the world.
Abu Dhabi is a pretty amazing place. It began as sand, and in a few short decades it has become a major city. With many of the world’s tallest buildings being built there, its is fast becoming one of the great cities of the world. We were only there for a day but it was a great way to break the trip to Germany.
We departed on time but there were some delays landing at Frankfurt, due mainly to the chaos in Europe caused by the unusually cold weather and snow in Europe at the moment. It was quite strange to see Frankfurt, one of the world’s busiest and biggest airports completely covered in snow… totally white apart from lots of flashing lights! We cleared customs, jumped in the sky rail to transfer to terminal one, then got the train into the city, and the massive Hauptbahnhof (Main Rail Station) which is one of the biggest and busiest in Europe.
Heavy snow greeted us in Frankfurt, wit a lot of snow lying o the ground – unusual for Germany, but a nice atmosphere to start the tour with.
After checking in to the hotel, a group of us walked over to Romerburg, and for those visiting Frankfurt for the first time I did a bit of a brief on where things were and what they were etc, before we headed to the ‘Pauliner Hof’ behind the Church of St Bartholemeu (the ‘Dom’) for dinner. A traditional hotel / microbrewery and German restaurant was the perfect setting for our first meal in Germany.
Next morning snow had cleared and though overcast, was a pleasant 4 below zero. Gradually people descended on the old town , and our numbers grew from 6 to 40 in no time for the first walking tour at 8.30am. It was great to see all the familiar MUCS faces again, and hear of everyone’s travels, via distant lands as diverse as London, Seoul, Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Barcelona, Singapore, Paris, and even Helsinki and Moscow! Finally MUCS were in Germany, and the tour was no longer a dream but a reality.
We enjoyed fantastic walking tour of Frankfurt and its fascinating sights, from the impressive Dom of St Batholomaus (venue for the coronation ceremonies for ten of the Holy Roman Emperors between 1562 and 1792), even though it was not actually a Cathedral), Roman ruins dating from 72 AD to the medieval churches and houses, through to the post-war reconstructions and the modern skyscrapers that give Frankfurt Europe’s tallest skyline. After a few hours the first group headed for the wonderful museums that line the River bank – the Boticelli Exhibition at the Stadt Gallery, the Jewish Museum, Museum of Modern Art, and Natural History Museum all popular. Sights visited included the Alte Nicholai Church, Rathaus, Oldest surviving house in Frankfurt, the Roman ruins, the Alte Stucke, the Jewish Holocaust Memorial, the old Jewish Cemetery (including the memorials to Anne Frank and her sister and the Rothschilds), the ‘Stumble Stones’, and lots of beautiful churches. Meanwhile another 30 or so people had arrived and began their walking tour at 11.30am, before we all headed to Sachsenhausen to the Dauth Sneider Restaurant, in an old traditional family owned ‘Apple Wine Pub’ where we feasted on Wurst, Sauerkraut, Pork knuckles, liver soup, bread, potatos and dumplings and drank the local Apple Wine Sachsenhausen is so famous for.
After lunch 70 of us recommenced the walking tour, crossing the River Main, and visiting the Church of the Knights Templar, dating from 1150 AD, as well as other sights such as the Stock Exchange, the Old Opera, the Ziel, St Leonard’s Church, Goethe Haus, the old medieval watch tower, city wall etc.
After a quick briefing in the Romerplatz outside the Old Nicholas Church we all headed our own ways for dinner. A large group of us visited the old tavern opposite the church, the oldest original house in Frankfurt still standing, dating from about 1400, and enjoyed a wonderful dinner and beer before making our way through the snow to our respective hotels.
Next day we had a free morning in Frankfurt for people to explore the city further, visit the museums and galleries, take more photos, enjoy the pubs and cafes or hit the Ziel for shopping before the tour officially began. At 2pm the entire group assembled for the first time, at the Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof, a magnificent structure in itself, and one of the world’s busiest railway stations. There we met the last few members of our part who had flown in from various parts of the world, as well as our two full time tour guides, the very entertaining Maritza and Greta, and boarded our two luxury coaches.
Driving through Frankfurt, across the River Main, and south, we headed for the Necar Valley, and to our Hotel in Schriesheim, just a little along the river from the ancient University town of Heidelberg. We arrived at the charming Hotel Scheid in time for drinks, and enjoyed a few hours to relax and unwind in the very comfortable and charming hotel bar before our first tour meal with everyone together at last. With snow falling outside, and the hotel set amongst hills and forests, it was a perfect setting for our first formal tour meal. German dumpling soup, piles and piles of vegies, with roast port and lost of it!!!
Saturday morning we rose early and enjoyed a huge breakfast, with a feast of old meats, cheeses, breads, cereals, sweets, fresh fruit, yogurts and even Tiramisu for the sweet tooths amongst us! We then boarded the busses, and headed for Heidelberg. A short drive away, we arrived to the stunning views of Heidelberg completely blanketed in snow… a rare treat indeed, and a beautiful sight to remember. We were met by our two very entertaining local tour guides and then embarked on a bus tour of the Neckar Valley, before leaving the busses at the Nackarmunzplatz and embarking on a walking tour of the town and the castle. Given the amount of snow on the ground we rode the Funincular (a steep railway that goes through a tunnel straight up the mountain to the castle) rather than walk, and then enjoyed a three hour tour of the huge red sandstone castle ruin and grounds. The castle is one of the greatest Gothic –Renaissance castles in Germany and is dominated by the great tower with its 26 foot thick walls that were blown up by the French in the late 17th century. We enterd the castle and explored the magnificent ruins of the Palace of Friedrich IV erected in 1601, and the ancient bell tower which dates from the early 1500s. We entered the great Wine Vat building, and saw the famous ‘Great Cask’ – the largest wine cask ever built – built in 1751 and capable of holding more than 208,000 litres of wine!
Whilst visiting the Great Cask, we were asked by the castle guardians to make an impromptu performance for the retired German President and his enterage of VIPs who were present. So, quite fittingly, our first official performance in Germany was for the former President, in the grounds of Heidelberg Castle, next to the world’s biggest wine cask!!! Our impromptu performance, with no music, was very well received and we celebrated with local wine, hot coffee and butter cake!
In freezing, windy conditions we then spent the rest of the day exploring the old university town and its churches, walkways, views and inns. Some of the highlights were the recently restored Jesuit Church, the imposing Heiliggeistkirche, the Marktplatz and its charming stalls, the student prison, the magnificent bridge and Philosophers Weg ( a winding train up the mountain over the other side of the River with stunning views of the Castle and City), and some of the 300 year old pubs and bars that are still serving gret food and beer. These included the famous student pub the ‘Red Ox Inn’ which opened in 1703 and has enjoyed guests ranging from Bismark to Mark Twain. Next door the ‘Zum Sepp’l’ bar (dating from 1634) was another student pub adorned wit graffiti and carvings on the walls and furniture dating back hundreds of years.
With the strong wind creating a wind-chill factor of around -10 degrees below freezing, the warm bus trip home to our comfortable hotel was enjoyed by all, and we enjoyed another dinner at the Hotel Scheid before a short rehearsal in the restaurant which gave us all a chance to run through things before our first big performance in the morning at the Imperial Cathedral of Worms. It also gave Rod a chance to try out his new recording gear and test the remote system he is using to record our performances with.
Our Etihad flight from Melbourne to Abu Dhabi was excellent. Brilliant food, excellent service, smooth flight and very comfortable. I actually managed to sleep more than I ever have before on a long haul flight, but that was probably due to the handful of valerian tablets I dosed myself up with after dinner!
We arrived in Abu Dhabi at dawn after a 15 hour flight. Brand new airport… the Arabs don’t muck around. Everything that opens and shuts, clean and efficient, and the fastest exit I have ever experienced in an international airport.
6 of us were on the flight and we were expecting to pay for a visa to be allowed to exit the airport, but were very pleased when we were told by the border guards that we were free to enter the city as long as we returned in time for our flight… hey stamped our passports, waved us through and no charge! Excellent.
I arranged for a mini bus to collect us – brand new Mercedes complete with soft leather seats etc, and we hit the Abu Dhabi expressway… no lights, boredered by green lawns and thousands of massive Palm trees, and a totally straight road with no speed limits. We were flying along at 155 kms an hour in no time!
First thing that struck us was the sky… a glowing red/pink colour, with the Moon, stars and Sun all present at once. Quite beautiful. The second thing was how flat it all was, we were surrounded by desert sands. Abu Dhabi is the capital city of, and the second largest city in the United Arab Emirates. It lies on a T-shaped island jutting into the Persian Gulf from the central western coast. The entire city has been built during my own lifetime which is hard to believe… basically all the creation of Sheik Zayed who only recently died.
Our first stop was down town Abu Dhabi, and its magnificent skyscrapers, reclaimed islands, water front marinas and beaches, and vast shopping malls. We had a coffee in the Marina Mall as it as just opening and visited the top of the Marina Mall Tower, a massive tower with a revolving glass restaurant at the top with breathtaking views over the city.
We then spent some time on the beach, but were getting too hot so then headed for the Sheik Zayed Mosque, otherwise known as The Great Mosque.
The Sheik Zayed Mosque, is a stunningly beautiful building, with white marble domes which can be seen from far across Abu Dhabi, and as you enter the city from the airport. We arrived as the fire-like sun was rising above the Arabian desert in a red sky, and seeing this sensual group of massive white marble domes & towers illuminated under the soft-coloured sky was beautiful...you really felt like you were in an exotic far away place...
The Great Mosque has only been opened for about a year, having taken 13 years to complete. It is the 2nd or 3rd largest mosque in the world, covering 22,000 sq metres, and its surrounding grounds about the equivalent to 5 football grounds. Sheik Zayed (the Arab Sheik who basically created the city of Abu Dhabi the year I was born) has his grave here in a separate enclosure, strictly guarded and with musilim prayers constantly chanted over huge set of speakers, and strictly no cameras allowed. Visitors like myself are however allowed to visit the main mosque, and the outside if the building is as massive as it is beautiful. Made of pure white marble and gold, and surrounded by bright blue reflective pools, the building reminds me of a cross between the Kremlin Cathedrals and the great Taj Mahal. Inside is as stunning as the outside, vast spaces, domes, thousands of massive columns of white marble inlaid with mother of pearl and semi precious stones, extravagant overisized chandeliers, (7 in all, including the largest in the world, shipped in from Germany, adorned in 24 carot gold & covered in thousands of dazzling swarovski crystals). The main space is covered in an elaborate carpet, handwoven by 1,200 Iranian women, again the largest hand woven carpet in the world.
Abu Dhabi is a pretty amazing place. It began as sand, and in a few short decades it has become a major city. With many of the world’s tallest buildings being built there, its is fast becoming one of the great cities of the world. We were only there for a day but it was a great way to break the trip to Germany.
We departed on time but there were some delays landing at Frankfurt, due mainly to the chaos in Europe caused by the unusually cold weather and snow in Europe at the moment. It was quite strange to see Frankfurt, one of the world’s busiest and biggest airports completely covered in snow… totally white apart from lots of flashing lights! We cleared customs, jumped in the sky rail to transfer to terminal one, then got the train into the city, and the massive Hauptbahnhof (Main Rail Station) which is one of the biggest and busiest in Europe.
Heavy snow greeted us in Frankfurt, wit a lot of snow lying o the ground – unusual for Germany, but a nice atmosphere to start the tour with.
After checking in to the hotel, a group of us walked over to Romerburg, and for those visiting Frankfurt for the first time I did a bit of a brief on where things were and what they were etc, before we headed to the ‘Pauliner Hof’ behind the Church of St Bartholemeu (the ‘Dom’) for dinner. A traditional hotel / microbrewery and German restaurant was the perfect setting for our first meal in Germany.
Next morning snow had cleared and though overcast, was a pleasant 4 below zero. Gradually people descended on the old town , and our numbers grew from 6 to 40 in no time for the first walking tour at 8.30am. It was great to see all the familiar MUCS faces again, and hear of everyone’s travels, via distant lands as diverse as London, Seoul, Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Barcelona, Singapore, Paris, and even Helsinki and Moscow! Finally MUCS were in Germany, and the tour was no longer a dream but a reality.
We enjoyed fantastic walking tour of Frankfurt and its fascinating sights, from the impressive Dom of St Batholomaus (venue for the coronation ceremonies for ten of the Holy Roman Emperors between 1562 and 1792), even though it was not actually a Cathedral), Roman ruins dating from 72 AD to the medieval churches and houses, through to the post-war reconstructions and the modern skyscrapers that give Frankfurt Europe’s tallest skyline. After a few hours the first group headed for the wonderful museums that line the River bank – the Boticelli Exhibition at the Stadt Gallery, the Jewish Museum, Museum of Modern Art, and Natural History Museum all popular. Sights visited included the Alte Nicholai Church, Rathaus, Oldest surviving house in Frankfurt, the Roman ruins, the Alte Stucke, the Jewish Holocaust Memorial, the old Jewish Cemetery (including the memorials to Anne Frank and her sister and the Rothschilds), the ‘Stumble Stones’, and lots of beautiful churches. Meanwhile another 30 or so people had arrived and began their walking tour at 11.30am, before we all headed to Sachsenhausen to the Dauth Sneider Restaurant, in an old traditional family owned ‘Apple Wine Pub’ where we feasted on Wurst, Sauerkraut, Pork knuckles, liver soup, bread, potatos and dumplings and drank the local Apple Wine Sachsenhausen is so famous for.
After lunch 70 of us recommenced the walking tour, crossing the River Main, and visiting the Church of the Knights Templar, dating from 1150 AD, as well as other sights such as the Stock Exchange, the Old Opera, the Ziel, St Leonard’s Church, Goethe Haus, the old medieval watch tower, city wall etc.
After a quick briefing in the Romerplatz outside the Old Nicholas Church we all headed our own ways for dinner. A large group of us visited the old tavern opposite the church, the oldest original house in Frankfurt still standing, dating from about 1400, and enjoyed a wonderful dinner and beer before making our way through the snow to our respective hotels.
Next day we had a free morning in Frankfurt for people to explore the city further, visit the museums and galleries, take more photos, enjoy the pubs and cafes or hit the Ziel for shopping before the tour officially began. At 2pm the entire group assembled for the first time, at the Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof, a magnificent structure in itself, and one of the world’s busiest railway stations. There we met the last few members of our part who had flown in from various parts of the world, as well as our two full time tour guides, the very entertaining Maritza and Greta, and boarded our two luxury coaches.
Driving through Frankfurt, across the River Main, and south, we headed for the Necar Valley, and to our Hotel in Schriesheim, just a little along the river from the ancient University town of Heidelberg. We arrived at the charming Hotel Scheid in time for drinks, and enjoyed a few hours to relax and unwind in the very comfortable and charming hotel bar before our first tour meal with everyone together at last. With snow falling outside, and the hotel set amongst hills and forests, it was a perfect setting for our first formal tour meal. German dumpling soup, piles and piles of vegies, with roast port and lost of it!!!
Saturday morning we rose early and enjoyed a huge breakfast, with a feast of old meats, cheeses, breads, cereals, sweets, fresh fruit, yogurts and even Tiramisu for the sweet tooths amongst us! We then boarded the busses, and headed for Heidelberg. A short drive away, we arrived to the stunning views of Heidelberg completely blanketed in snow… a rare treat indeed, and a beautiful sight to remember. We were met by our two very entertaining local tour guides and then embarked on a bus tour of the Neckar Valley, before leaving the busses at the Nackarmunzplatz and embarking on a walking tour of the town and the castle. Given the amount of snow on the ground we rode the Funincular (a steep railway that goes through a tunnel straight up the mountain to the castle) rather than walk, and then enjoyed a three hour tour of the huge red sandstone castle ruin and grounds. The castle is one of the greatest Gothic –Renaissance castles in Germany and is dominated by the great tower with its 26 foot thick walls that were blown up by the French in the late 17th century. We enterd the castle and explored the magnificent ruins of the Palace of Friedrich IV erected in 1601, and the ancient bell tower which dates from the early 1500s. We entered the great Wine Vat building, and saw the famous ‘Great Cask’ – the largest wine cask ever built – built in 1751 and capable of holding more than 208,000 litres of wine!
Whilst visiting the Great Cask, we were asked by the castle guardians to make an impromptu performance for the retired German President and his enterage of VIPs who were present. So, quite fittingly, our first official performance in Germany was for the former President, in the grounds of Heidelberg Castle, next to the world’s biggest wine cask!!! Our impromptu performance, with no music, was very well received and we celebrated with local wine, hot coffee and butter cake!
In freezing, windy conditions we then spent the rest of the day exploring the old university town and its churches, walkways, views and inns. Some of the highlights were the recently restored Jesuit Church, the imposing Heiliggeistkirche, the Marktplatz and its charming stalls, the student prison, the magnificent bridge and Philosophers Weg ( a winding train up the mountain over the other side of the River with stunning views of the Castle and City), and some of the 300 year old pubs and bars that are still serving gret food and beer. These included the famous student pub the ‘Red Ox Inn’ which opened in 1703 and has enjoyed guests ranging from Bismark to Mark Twain. Next door the ‘Zum Sepp’l’ bar (dating from 1634) was another student pub adorned wit graffiti and carvings on the walls and furniture dating back hundreds of years.
With the strong wind creating a wind-chill factor of around -10 degrees below freezing, the warm bus trip home to our comfortable hotel was enjoyed by all, and we enjoyed another dinner at the Hotel Scheid before a short rehearsal in the restaurant which gave us all a chance to run through things before our first big performance in the morning at the Imperial Cathedral of Worms. It also gave Rod a chance to try out his new recording gear and test the remote system he is using to record our performances with.
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