Hello everyone,
I am most sure Andrew will follow up on his running commentary shortly. This is just to let everyone know that the tour concluded on a high note, with several of the choir being either enroute, mid-air or hitting the ground back home as this is being typed at Changi airport, Singapore.
I hope this little cyber-notice board has been useful to those back home.
Keep an eye out for the tour DVD and CD to be produced within the next few weeks.
kind regards
Rod
Friday, 5 February 2010
Tuesday, 2 February 2010
January 28 Thursday Salzburg - Linz – Vienna
This morning we checked out of our Salzburg Hotel, and in heavy snow loaded the coaches ready for another on time departure. With one or two minor exceptions, we have been very good at loading and departing on time each day, unusual given there are 86 of us (including drivers and tour guides). As we left the magical City of Salzburg for the last time on this tour, we were all rather sad to leave given the beauty of this place. Following the River Salzach we had our last glimpses of the mighty fortress towering above the baroque domes and capulas that give Salzburg its distinctive post card skyline and were quickly heading towards the majestic Austrian Alps. A short way out of Salzburg we passed the Convent Church which was the setting for the famous Wedding Scene of Maria and Captain Von Trapp in THAT movie.
WE were bound for Linz, and the famous Abbey and Church of St. Florian, the early Roman Martyr who is now Patron Saint of Firemen amongst other things! The Abbey was built on the spot near to where the Saint had been executed, and according to legend when he was tortured and drowned, the Mill Stone to which he was attached miraculously floated. That same stone, so the legend goes, was then used as the corner stone of the first Abbey.
Over the last thousand years or so the complex has expanded and now stands as a magnificent baroque palace, with thousands of rooms and vast cloisters, a large graveyard complete with impressive War Memorials, and of course the famous Collegiate Church. Prior to visiting the church, we were treated to an informative tour of some of the important areas of the Abbey, beginning with the massive stone cloisters which surrounded a huge landscaped courtyard, covered in several feet of deep, pristine snow which led to the Abbey catacombs below the church. Here were the coffins of bishops, princes, monks and notable figures in the life of the Abbey. Chief amongst them was the great Austrian composer Anton Bruckner, whose body lies directly beneath the Church’s famous organ in an impressive bronze sarcophagus directly in front of a huge collection of some 6000 skulls and leg bones of bodies which were formerly buried in the Abbey cemetery.
We then visited the Abbey’s famed library, which houses one of Europe’s most significant collections of early manuscripts and pre-fifteenth century volumes. Housed in a magnificent room, with books lining the walls twenty feet up on all sides, the library features ornate wood paneling and magnificent coloured frescos on the ceiling surrounded by lavish baroque plasterwork and marble statuary.
The Abbey also contains an important collection of Religious artwork, with a gallery of large oil paintings from the 15th century, originally the part of huge decorated altars. Another gallery featured sculptures and carvings of St Florian by European Masters, and yet another of superb Stained Glass, with the earliest pieces quite staggeringly over 700 years old.
The highlight of the St Florian visit was however the stunning Abbey Church, and its towering, highly decorated organ, named in honour of Anton Bruckner who was Abbey organist there for many years. Featuring several huge ranks of over 7000 gold and silver pipes, four manuals, and over 100 stops the massive organ is famed throughout the world as a masterpiece of organ building, and we were treated to a private half hour recital on the famous instrument by the resident organist,
We were then given the rare honour of standing on the chancel steps in front of the high altar
In freezing conditions, where we performed a number of Bruckner’s motets, originally written for the famed boy’s and men’s choir of the Abbey Church which continues to sing on Sundays there to this day. The vast, ornate interior with its towering marble statues, detailed gold work and superb wood carvings and frescos has an intimidatingly-resonant acoustic, which provided the perfect setting for our music, apart from the three below zero temperature of the building!
Upon arrival in Vienna we immediately embarked on a quick coach tour of the ‘City of Dreams’ – and as we travelled along the great ‘Ring trasse’ – perhaps one of the world’s most impressive boulevards – we were all impressed by the magnificent buildings that are a reminder of the Imperial grandeur of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The amazing neo-gothic Rathaus, with its huge ice rink out front, the beautiful palaces and formal gardens, the museums, arches, churches and elegant residential buildings certainly make Vienna a major attraction. If you like big buildings and symetery, this is certainly a place to visit. By the time we checked into the hotel it was getting late, so we enjoyed dinner in the hotel restaurant, and then headed out for the nearest bar… given our location near the West Wien Bahnhof, (a bit like the equivalent of Southern Cross Station!), the surrounds were not as elegant as those of the Old City, but somehow the dodgy atmosphere of a big European City Red Light District just added to the charm of it all, and we all drank merrily at the ‘local’ until it was time to head a few blocks back to the hotel, where warm beds in our cramped little rooms were awaiting!
Andrew Wailes
WE were bound for Linz, and the famous Abbey and Church of St. Florian, the early Roman Martyr who is now Patron Saint of Firemen amongst other things! The Abbey was built on the spot near to where the Saint had been executed, and according to legend when he was tortured and drowned, the Mill Stone to which he was attached miraculously floated. That same stone, so the legend goes, was then used as the corner stone of the first Abbey.
Over the last thousand years or so the complex has expanded and now stands as a magnificent baroque palace, with thousands of rooms and vast cloisters, a large graveyard complete with impressive War Memorials, and of course the famous Collegiate Church. Prior to visiting the church, we were treated to an informative tour of some of the important areas of the Abbey, beginning with the massive stone cloisters which surrounded a huge landscaped courtyard, covered in several feet of deep, pristine snow which led to the Abbey catacombs below the church. Here were the coffins of bishops, princes, monks and notable figures in the life of the Abbey. Chief amongst them was the great Austrian composer Anton Bruckner, whose body lies directly beneath the Church’s famous organ in an impressive bronze sarcophagus directly in front of a huge collection of some 6000 skulls and leg bones of bodies which were formerly buried in the Abbey cemetery.
We then visited the Abbey’s famed library, which houses one of Europe’s most significant collections of early manuscripts and pre-fifteenth century volumes. Housed in a magnificent room, with books lining the walls twenty feet up on all sides, the library features ornate wood paneling and magnificent coloured frescos on the ceiling surrounded by lavish baroque plasterwork and marble statuary.
The Abbey also contains an important collection of Religious artwork, with a gallery of large oil paintings from the 15th century, originally the part of huge decorated altars. Another gallery featured sculptures and carvings of St Florian by European Masters, and yet another of superb Stained Glass, with the earliest pieces quite staggeringly over 700 years old.
The highlight of the St Florian visit was however the stunning Abbey Church, and its towering, highly decorated organ, named in honour of Anton Bruckner who was Abbey organist there for many years. Featuring several huge ranks of over 7000 gold and silver pipes, four manuals, and over 100 stops the massive organ is famed throughout the world as a masterpiece of organ building, and we were treated to a private half hour recital on the famous instrument by the resident organist,
We were then given the rare honour of standing on the chancel steps in front of the high altar
In freezing conditions, where we performed a number of Bruckner’s motets, originally written for the famed boy’s and men’s choir of the Abbey Church which continues to sing on Sundays there to this day. The vast, ornate interior with its towering marble statues, detailed gold work and superb wood carvings and frescos has an intimidatingly-resonant acoustic, which provided the perfect setting for our music, apart from the three below zero temperature of the building!
Upon arrival in Vienna we immediately embarked on a quick coach tour of the ‘City of Dreams’ – and as we travelled along the great ‘Ring trasse’ – perhaps one of the world’s most impressive boulevards – we were all impressed by the magnificent buildings that are a reminder of the Imperial grandeur of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The amazing neo-gothic Rathaus, with its huge ice rink out front, the beautiful palaces and formal gardens, the museums, arches, churches and elegant residential buildings certainly make Vienna a major attraction. If you like big buildings and symetery, this is certainly a place to visit. By the time we checked into the hotel it was getting late, so we enjoyed dinner in the hotel restaurant, and then headed out for the nearest bar… given our location near the West Wien Bahnhof, (a bit like the equivalent of Southern Cross Station!), the surrounds were not as elegant as those of the Old City, but somehow the dodgy atmosphere of a big European City Red Light District just added to the charm of it all, and we all drank merrily at the ‘local’ until it was time to head a few blocks back to the hotel, where warm beds in our cramped little rooms were awaiting!
Andrew Wailes
Friday, 29 January 2010
Wednesday January 27 Salzburg – Hallein – Obersdorf – Arnsdorf- Lamprechtshausen
This morning we travelled about a half an hour out of Salzburg, toward the Alps, to the little village of Obendorf, and to the nearby Hallein Salt Mines. There we enjoy a guided tour of the Salt Mines in Hallein. After being issued with white smocks and trousers, we began to resemble a Hazchem Incident Battillion! We boarded a small subterranean train and made our way deep into the mountain , some 150 meters underground. A series of long narrow mines and dimly lit caverns carved from the rock provided the setting for a series of underground galleries which demonstrated the salt extraction techniques and also told the history of the area and the mines, which date back to the time of the Celts. We were even offered to chance to taste the rocks, being handed large lumps of salt crystals, which did indeed taste like giant lumps of rocksalt. In the middle of the mine there was a small underground cave where we watched a film re-enacting the story of the ruling Archbishop Prince of Salzburg who ruled the entire area thanks to the vast wealth generated by the salt he mined.
A definite highlight of the tour was the miner’s shutes that we slid down, sending us 100 metres deeper into the mine. Lots of squeals and shrieks echoed through the mines mine as 80 or so MUCSters flung themselves into the darkness below, reaching speeds of almost 30kms an hour as they slid down.
Another highlight was crossing the subterranean lake deep below the mountain on a large wooden boat. As we crossed the mirror-like waters, we were told that the lake below us was a cool 270 meters deep in the middle, and to make the short trip a little more atmospheric, we were treated to a sound and light show which flooded the cave with lasers and brightly coloured lights.
A series of underground chapels and monuments was another feature of the mines, as well as a reproduction of the so called ‘Salzburg Man’, unearthed by miners in 1605, and believed to be a perfectly preserved corpse of a trapped Celtic Miner from over 1500 years ago. Eventually we emerged from the mountain to a winter wonderland scene of deep snow, and white pine trees, before we all snapped up souvenirs including various forms of edible salts, crystals, jewellery and rocks.
We then headed back to the busses, for the short trip along the Alpine Road to the little village of Oberndorf/Arnsdorf where deep snow had covered the buildings and turned everything into a tranquil white landscape, broken only by tall snow-covered trees, smoking chimneys and church steeples. We wandered through the little toy-like village to the ‘Silent Night Chapel’, built on the old site of St Nicholas’ Church in Oberndorf which was destroyed by floods about 150 years ago. The chapel is tiny, and has only enough room for a few people to sit and admire the two elegant stained glass windows that commemorate the collaboration between the music teacher Franz Xaver Gruber and the Local priest Joseph Moor who wrote the famous carol in 1818 when the church organ was broken and there was a desire to have some music for the Christmas Service when snow has isolated the town and there were no other musicians available to perform. We were met there by a member of the acclaimed Michael Haydn Choir, who guided us to the next town of Arnsdorf, where we visited the 1000 year old Pilgrim Church dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The church featured numerous shrines, all ornately decorated in the high baroque style, as well as the original single manual organ once played by Franz Xavier Gruber perched high above the nave, and a rather gruesome ‘bone chamber’ outside the church, which was stacked with human skulls and leg bones – all engraved with the names of the dead who had once been buried in the church’s tiny cemetery, but who were later exhumed and ‘restored’ to save space!
There we gave an informal and impromptu performance of ‘Stille Nacht’ standing ‘round yon Virgin Mother and Child’ – the church’s beautiful nativity scene which was the centerpiece of the church. Singing in freezing temperatures, as heavy snow fell gently around us, there really was a sense of silence and calm, and it was clear to all where the inspiration fro Gruber’s famous carol had come from.
At the church we were met by Stefan, a tall imposing man from the village, who was also a member of the Michael Haydn Choir who we would be performing with that night. He guided us on through the little farms and houses of the surrounding area to the village of Lamprechtshausen, where we were shown into the main building in the town… a large , modern multi-purpose facility that served as the school, public library, recreation centre, village hall and .music academy.
The local Michael Haydn Choir, named in honour of the famed local composer from Salzburg, had been looking forward to hosting us very much, and it was immediately clear that they had gone to a lot of effort to make us feel welcome. They had completely redecorated the school gymnasium, covering the walls in Australian outback colours of ochre, red and orange, and had commissioned a local artist to paint a series of huge murals depicting Kangaroos superimposed over Austrian maps and scenes… an incredible gesture of welcome. The local choir had also decorated the walls with giant ‘cow spots’ of black leather, representing the local rural community, and had designed special ‘cow spot’ t shirts especially for the occasion. The theme of the concert was ‘Milka ku meets Kanguru’ – an attempt to break down the stereotypical image of Austrians all being yodeling, old fashioned cow herders, and Australians all being outback adventurers with no cultural taste whatsoever. Whilst they sang a contemporary program of daring Austrian arrangements and compositions, ranging from Shoenberg to close harmony ballads, the Australians sang traditional Austrian and German sacred music dominated by a healthy sprinkling of Bruckner. A highlight was a combined performance of ‘Locus Iste’ which I had the great pleasure of conducting, and the two choirs combined strength of over 120 singers made a magnificent sound in the hall which was packed to overflowing, with every chair being brought into the space, and people standing at the back and in the aisles. We were told it ws the most people that they could ever remember squashing into the hall, and the Mayor was on hand to present me with a beautiful wooden lantern to mark the occasion, along with a facsimilie copy of the original manuscript and poem of ‘Silent Night’.
After hearing the magnificent Michael Haydn Choir, with their impeccable diction and intonation, MUCS were obviously inspired to give one of their finest performances so far on tour. Our forty minute recital of Bruckner, Mendelssohn, and a few short pieces by Tye, Leavitt and Rachmaninov was extremely well received with a long ovation and several curtain calls – even without curtains!!!
We exchanged gifts and then enjoyed a feast put on for us, and shared by the other choir snd the people of the village who had helped prepare for us… we exchanged songs, and even learnt a simple yodelling song! It was a great night and our hosts were wonderful. It was only due to the strict laws about bus driver hours that we left as early as we did, so that we would not be late departing the next day. It was a shame as we all wanted to stay longer, but hopefully we will all meet again, perhaps in Australia!
Tuesday January 26, Australia Day - Salzburg
We woke today, to find Salzburg blanketed in thick snow… a magical sight which I think everyone was secretly hoping to experience for themselves!
We had a full morning free to explore the city, visit the churches, take coffee in the famous coffee houses, hit the classy shopping, go ice-skating, visit the Sound of Music sights, sleep in, visit the wonderful museums of art or Mozart’s birth or living houses, or a host of other options.
A large group of us decided to take the steep climb up to the top of the mighty Salzburg fortress, and in the heavy snow it certainly made for a picturesque scene. Once at the top we enjoyed stunning vistas of the area surrounding Salzburg, and marvelled at the array of domes and steeples that dot the city… there are 38 catholic churches in Salzburg alone! From the massive Dom, to the distinctive Red Onion Dome of Nonnberg Abbey (where Maria Von Trapp first lived as a member of the convent), the view is one of the most beautiful in Europe.
We decided to take the detailed tour of the fortress, given a large number of MUCSsters had not been there before, and for an hour or so we walked the inside passageways and staircases of the great castle, including a windy visit to the high tower for photos. There we raised the Australian flag in honour of Australia Day… it seemed rather appropriate, although I don’t think there was any panic in Salzburg below!
On the way down, we visited the tiny Fortress Church of St George, as well as the old gunnery platforms and medieval shops that once served the 300 or so people who lived inside the castle walls.
The snow and subzero temperatures made for an invigorating walk, and by the time we had walked down and back through the old town, another visit to Tomaselli’s Café was in order, where lots of fantastic cakes and coffee were consumed in style.
People then made good use of a few hours in Salzburg by doing some more shopping , and I suspect MUCS significantly boosted the local economy in a relatively short time. At 2.30pm we all independently made our way across the River to the New Town, and to the famous Mozarteum (one of the greatest Music Conservatoriums in the world), to the Great Hall of the Old Mozarteum where we were all booked in to attend a Symphony Concert by the Mozarteum Symphony as part of the Salzburg Mozart Week festivities.
We were treated to a wonderful concert, featuring a Haydn Symphony, a Mozart Symphony and a Mozart Piano Concerto and enjoyed the Baroque splendour of the famous Hall, with its lavish gold decoration and gorgeous heavily ornamented organ.
We headed for the Restaurant around the corner for Roast Pork and Pasta, before deciding what to do with the rest of the night. A large proportion opted for the opera – Mozart of course – and thoroughly enjoyed the $9 student tickets to see a great production of The Marriage of Figaro… performed by the Salzburg Opera Orchestra and the best singers of the Mozarteum in an extremely funny production.
By the time the opera was over, and other had wandered around the picturesque streets of this historical city, it was getting VERY cold and late. A quick trip back home on the trolley car along the River Salzach, and we all eventually returned to our hotel, which was now well covered in deep, powdery snow… like a scene from a Christmas postcard!
Andrew Wailes
A definite highlight of the tour was the miner’s shutes that we slid down, sending us 100 metres deeper into the mine. Lots of squeals and shrieks echoed through the mines mine as 80 or so MUCSters flung themselves into the darkness below, reaching speeds of almost 30kms an hour as they slid down.
Another highlight was crossing the subterranean lake deep below the mountain on a large wooden boat. As we crossed the mirror-like waters, we were told that the lake below us was a cool 270 meters deep in the middle, and to make the short trip a little more atmospheric, we were treated to a sound and light show which flooded the cave with lasers and brightly coloured lights.
A series of underground chapels and monuments was another feature of the mines, as well as a reproduction of the so called ‘Salzburg Man’, unearthed by miners in 1605, and believed to be a perfectly preserved corpse of a trapped Celtic Miner from over 1500 years ago. Eventually we emerged from the mountain to a winter wonderland scene of deep snow, and white pine trees, before we all snapped up souvenirs including various forms of edible salts, crystals, jewellery and rocks.
We then headed back to the busses, for the short trip along the Alpine Road to the little village of Oberndorf/Arnsdorf where deep snow had covered the buildings and turned everything into a tranquil white landscape, broken only by tall snow-covered trees, smoking chimneys and church steeples. We wandered through the little toy-like village to the ‘Silent Night Chapel’, built on the old site of St Nicholas’ Church in Oberndorf which was destroyed by floods about 150 years ago. The chapel is tiny, and has only enough room for a few people to sit and admire the two elegant stained glass windows that commemorate the collaboration between the music teacher Franz Xaver Gruber and the Local priest Joseph Moor who wrote the famous carol in 1818 when the church organ was broken and there was a desire to have some music for the Christmas Service when snow has isolated the town and there were no other musicians available to perform. We were met there by a member of the acclaimed Michael Haydn Choir, who guided us to the next town of Arnsdorf, where we visited the 1000 year old Pilgrim Church dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The church featured numerous shrines, all ornately decorated in the high baroque style, as well as the original single manual organ once played by Franz Xavier Gruber perched high above the nave, and a rather gruesome ‘bone chamber’ outside the church, which was stacked with human skulls and leg bones – all engraved with the names of the dead who had once been buried in the church’s tiny cemetery, but who were later exhumed and ‘restored’ to save space!
There we gave an informal and impromptu performance of ‘Stille Nacht’ standing ‘round yon Virgin Mother and Child’ – the church’s beautiful nativity scene which was the centerpiece of the church. Singing in freezing temperatures, as heavy snow fell gently around us, there really was a sense of silence and calm, and it was clear to all where the inspiration fro Gruber’s famous carol had come from.
At the church we were met by Stefan, a tall imposing man from the village, who was also a member of the Michael Haydn Choir who we would be performing with that night. He guided us on through the little farms and houses of the surrounding area to the village of Lamprechtshausen, where we were shown into the main building in the town… a large , modern multi-purpose facility that served as the school, public library, recreation centre, village hall and .music academy.
The local Michael Haydn Choir, named in honour of the famed local composer from Salzburg, had been looking forward to hosting us very much, and it was immediately clear that they had gone to a lot of effort to make us feel welcome. They had completely redecorated the school gymnasium, covering the walls in Australian outback colours of ochre, red and orange, and had commissioned a local artist to paint a series of huge murals depicting Kangaroos superimposed over Austrian maps and scenes… an incredible gesture of welcome. The local choir had also decorated the walls with giant ‘cow spots’ of black leather, representing the local rural community, and had designed special ‘cow spot’ t shirts especially for the occasion. The theme of the concert was ‘Milka ku meets Kanguru’ – an attempt to break down the stereotypical image of Austrians all being yodeling, old fashioned cow herders, and Australians all being outback adventurers with no cultural taste whatsoever. Whilst they sang a contemporary program of daring Austrian arrangements and compositions, ranging from Shoenberg to close harmony ballads, the Australians sang traditional Austrian and German sacred music dominated by a healthy sprinkling of Bruckner. A highlight was a combined performance of ‘Locus Iste’ which I had the great pleasure of conducting, and the two choirs combined strength of over 120 singers made a magnificent sound in the hall which was packed to overflowing, with every chair being brought into the space, and people standing at the back and in the aisles. We were told it ws the most people that they could ever remember squashing into the hall, and the Mayor was on hand to present me with a beautiful wooden lantern to mark the occasion, along with a facsimilie copy of the original manuscript and poem of ‘Silent Night’.
After hearing the magnificent Michael Haydn Choir, with their impeccable diction and intonation, MUCS were obviously inspired to give one of their finest performances so far on tour. Our forty minute recital of Bruckner, Mendelssohn, and a few short pieces by Tye, Leavitt and Rachmaninov was extremely well received with a long ovation and several curtain calls – even without curtains!!!
We exchanged gifts and then enjoyed a feast put on for us, and shared by the other choir snd the people of the village who had helped prepare for us… we exchanged songs, and even learnt a simple yodelling song! It was a great night and our hosts were wonderful. It was only due to the strict laws about bus driver hours that we left as early as we did, so that we would not be late departing the next day. It was a shame as we all wanted to stay longer, but hopefully we will all meet again, perhaps in Australia!
Tuesday January 26, Australia Day - Salzburg
We woke today, to find Salzburg blanketed in thick snow… a magical sight which I think everyone was secretly hoping to experience for themselves!
We had a full morning free to explore the city, visit the churches, take coffee in the famous coffee houses, hit the classy shopping, go ice-skating, visit the Sound of Music sights, sleep in, visit the wonderful museums of art or Mozart’s birth or living houses, or a host of other options.
A large group of us decided to take the steep climb up to the top of the mighty Salzburg fortress, and in the heavy snow it certainly made for a picturesque scene. Once at the top we enjoyed stunning vistas of the area surrounding Salzburg, and marvelled at the array of domes and steeples that dot the city… there are 38 catholic churches in Salzburg alone! From the massive Dom, to the distinctive Red Onion Dome of Nonnberg Abbey (where Maria Von Trapp first lived as a member of the convent), the view is one of the most beautiful in Europe.
We decided to take the detailed tour of the fortress, given a large number of MUCSsters had not been there before, and for an hour or so we walked the inside passageways and staircases of the great castle, including a windy visit to the high tower for photos. There we raised the Australian flag in honour of Australia Day… it seemed rather appropriate, although I don’t think there was any panic in Salzburg below!
On the way down, we visited the tiny Fortress Church of St George, as well as the old gunnery platforms and medieval shops that once served the 300 or so people who lived inside the castle walls.
The snow and subzero temperatures made for an invigorating walk, and by the time we had walked down and back through the old town, another visit to Tomaselli’s Café was in order, where lots of fantastic cakes and coffee were consumed in style.
People then made good use of a few hours in Salzburg by doing some more shopping , and I suspect MUCS significantly boosted the local economy in a relatively short time. At 2.30pm we all independently made our way across the River to the New Town, and to the famous Mozarteum (one of the greatest Music Conservatoriums in the world), to the Great Hall of the Old Mozarteum where we were all booked in to attend a Symphony Concert by the Mozarteum Symphony as part of the Salzburg Mozart Week festivities.
We were treated to a wonderful concert, featuring a Haydn Symphony, a Mozart Symphony and a Mozart Piano Concerto and enjoyed the Baroque splendour of the famous Hall, with its lavish gold decoration and gorgeous heavily ornamented organ.
We headed for the Restaurant around the corner for Roast Pork and Pasta, before deciding what to do with the rest of the night. A large proportion opted for the opera – Mozart of course – and thoroughly enjoyed the $9 student tickets to see a great production of The Marriage of Figaro… performed by the Salzburg Opera Orchestra and the best singers of the Mozarteum in an extremely funny production.
By the time the opera was over, and other had wandered around the picturesque streets of this historical city, it was getting VERY cold and late. A quick trip back home on the trolley car along the River Salzach, and we all eventually returned to our hotel, which was now well covered in deep, powdery snow… like a scene from a Christmas postcard!
Andrew Wailes
Wednesday, 27 January 2010
January 25, Monday Munich - Salzburg
Today began with lots of strong, black coffee!
We were surprisingly fresh given the night before at the Hofbräuhaus which we put down to the purity of the Bavarian beer… thank goodness for that. Our Munich-born guide assured us that nobody gets hangovers from drinking good Munich beer!
On board the coaches, and off we went for a detailed guided tour of the main sights of Munich. Beginning at the stately Schloss Nymphenburg, the summer palace of the Wittelsbach's. Begun in 1664, this sprawling Italian style villa took more than 150 years to complete. The final palace plan was completed mainly by Elector Max Emanuel, who added four large pavilions in 1702.
Next sight was the huge Munich Olympia park, site of the 1972 Olympic games at the city’s northern edge. Constructed out of rubble left over the bombing during WW1, and partly underground, the park now features extensive landscaping, including ‘mini alps’ which can be used for walking, tobogganing or even skiing. Close by was the new home of BMW – very flash architecture and uber-modern. En route we saw an old air raid shelter, still standing solidly in the snow-covered parklands that surround the city. The main parkland of Munich is the magnificent 18th century ‘Englischer Garten’. Nude sunbathing is allowed in parts of the park, but thankfully it was a tad cold for that, and the only people who could be seen were the rather confused looking Geese and Ducks who were sitting on the frozen lakes!!!
Another superb example of German architecture was the massive and beautiful Bavarian National Museum building, the Bayerisches Nationalmuseum. Established in 1855, this vast building near the Haus der Kunst now contain millions of priceless works of art, including paintings, carvings, sculptures, statues, stained glass and church art.
Next was a sweep past the impressive New Parliament Building, the grand and imposing Bavarian Opera and the 1330 room Rezidenz (Palace) of Munich, which contains no less than 5 concert halls. We then disembarked from our coaches on the steps of the Opera House, and then continued our tour on foot, once again marveling at the Gothic splendor of the Neues Rathaus (City Hall), the Frauenkirche, Alt Peter, City Gate and the hustle and bustle of the Marienplatz. Everyone parted company for a few hours for a last minute shopping frenzy, where many beer steins, hats, postcards, glasses, miniature cuckoo clocks and Bavarian souvenirs were snapped up before we all headed for the famous ‘fisherman’s fountain’ to head back to our coaches for our trip to Salzburg.
On the way, with the Austrian Alps looming majestically in the background, we could not resist the opportunity to watch the Sound of Music… with the scenery so beautiful, and with 80 choristers all still in fairly goo voice, it was lots of fun and a great way to build excitement as we headed to the stunningly beautiful Baroque city known as the ‘Rome of the North’, with its baroque domes, elegant steeples, coloured bell towers and post card scenery.
We soon crossed the border and although we were all sad to have left Germany, we were equally excited to be embarking on the Austrian leg of our tour.
Upon arrival in Salzburg, we embarked upon a walking tour of the Old Town… beginning at Mirabell Palace, which was commissioned to be built by Wolf Dietrich for Salome Alt in 1606. The Mirabell Gardens hold groups of statues based on figures from Greek mythology. The gardens adjoin the Kongresshaus (Congress Center) and the Kurhaus (Paracelsus Health Spa) and are right next to the famous Mozarteum where we would be attending a performance the following day (on Mozart’s Birthday!).
Towering over Salzburg as a silent sentinel for the last thousand years is the Hohensalzburg Fortress, built in 1077 by Archbishop Gebhard. Considerably enlarged by Archbishop Leonhard von Keutschach (1495-1519), the imposing white fortress sits atop a giant mountain of rock, and is the largest, fully-preserved fortress still standing in central Europe.
One of the most beautiful sights in Salzburg is the charming Getreidegasse (main shopping street). This magic is not only generated by the high, narrow houses tightly nestled together, the enticing shops and the wrought iron guild signs, but also to the romantic passageways and courtyards which intersect the street. In Getreidegasse, no. 9 is where the Leopold Mozart family lived from 1747 to 1773. Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was born here on January 27, 1756. Today the rooms once occupied by the Mozart family house a museum. Mozart is everywhere to be seen in Salzburg, so this building is in many ways a spiritual centre of a secular kind in Salzburg.
If Mozart’s birthhouse is the secular heart of the city, then the Dom (Cathedral) is certainly the sacred heart. The original cathedral was built in 774 by St. Virgil (745-784). After a huge fire that devastated the Old Salzburg in 1598, reconstruction of the cathedral commenced in 1614 under Prince Archbishop Markus Sittikus to plans by Santino Solari. The great Italian Baroque style Dom was consecrated in 1628 by Prince Archbishop Paris Lodron and occupies pride of place in the city. A giant green dome and two smaller domes tower above the surrounding buildings, and the bells of the Cathedral can be heard for miles. We were granted a rare chance to perform and record a few short pieces in the Dom, and we certainly enjoyed the incredible acoustics of the building, singing in front of Mozart’s favourite organ (the Cathedral has five significant organs which are all still in use!). The vast baroque paintings and marble carvings, the massive dome and the sheer size of the place is certainly inspiring. The nave can hold some 10,000 people standing and yet, the architecture makes it feel smaller. In any case it is certainly a magnificent building and we were greatly honored to be allowed the chance to perform there.
Next to the Dom is Prince Archbishops Residenz. The medieval bishops' residence was given today's magnificent early Baroque appearance at the end of the 16th century. It has recently been renovated, and it was in this building that the young Wolfgang Mozart gave his first public concert, at the age of 6!
St. Peter’s Abbey and Benedictine Monastery was founded by St. Rupert about the year 700, the latter with romanesque and gothic cloisters. The church is high romanesque converted to late-baroque. Adjoining the church is St. Peter's cemetery, the final resting place of prominent personalities, including the composer Michael Haydn and the sister of Wolfgang Amadeus, Nannerl Mozart. The St. Peter's Cemetery (Petersfriedhof) in Salzburg has a fascinating history. It's one of Europe's oldest cemeteries; the catacombs in the cliff (Moenschberg) behind it date to 215 AD. A small church is also partially contained within the mountain, carved straight out from bare rock.
Another favourite spot was the various cafes which have been an important part of life in Salzburg for centuries and still are. Of particular note are two cafes, which were well frequented by the MUCS contingent: Tomaselli’s (Mozart’s favourite café, and founded in 1705), and Furst’s, immediately across the road (founded in 1805 and home of the original Salzburger MozartKugel.) Coffee in Salzburg is a real tradition, not to be rushed, but always to be enjoyed. We certainly enjoyed the elegant waiters in their dinner suits, the table service and the amazing cakes, but apart from anything else it is the coffee itself that is so great. But not just any old coffee… there are dozens to choose from including: Melange (a normal white coffee), Verlängerter (a large black coffee), Einspänner (a coffee served in a mug, topped with whipped cream and icing sugar; rather lovely!), Kleiner Brauner (a small coffee with cream/milk), Grosser Brauner (a large coffee with cream/milk), Kurzer (a short espresso), Fiaker (a black coffee served in a tall glass with a shot of cherry rum which will certainly warm you up and keep you going for hours!)
After a long day, the weather was turning much colder and we all made our way across the river to the Mozarteum Restaurant, where we enjoyed a meal of Goulash and Spetzle (Austrian Pasta), with salad and bread, washed down with more beer and wine and followed by a lovely Apple desert. We then made our way to our Oekotel Salzburg, a few kilometers out of the centre of the town - and apart from a silly few who were too excited to sleep, we all enjoyed a warm bed and a good night’s rest after another amazing day of sightseeing, history and European magic!!
Andrew Wailes
We were surprisingly fresh given the night before at the Hofbräuhaus which we put down to the purity of the Bavarian beer… thank goodness for that. Our Munich-born guide assured us that nobody gets hangovers from drinking good Munich beer!
On board the coaches, and off we went for a detailed guided tour of the main sights of Munich. Beginning at the stately Schloss Nymphenburg, the summer palace of the Wittelsbach's. Begun in 1664, this sprawling Italian style villa took more than 150 years to complete. The final palace plan was completed mainly by Elector Max Emanuel, who added four large pavilions in 1702.
Next sight was the huge Munich Olympia park, site of the 1972 Olympic games at the city’s northern edge. Constructed out of rubble left over the bombing during WW1, and partly underground, the park now features extensive landscaping, including ‘mini alps’ which can be used for walking, tobogganing or even skiing. Close by was the new home of BMW – very flash architecture and uber-modern. En route we saw an old air raid shelter, still standing solidly in the snow-covered parklands that surround the city. The main parkland of Munich is the magnificent 18th century ‘Englischer Garten’. Nude sunbathing is allowed in parts of the park, but thankfully it was a tad cold for that, and the only people who could be seen were the rather confused looking Geese and Ducks who were sitting on the frozen lakes!!!
Another superb example of German architecture was the massive and beautiful Bavarian National Museum building, the Bayerisches Nationalmuseum. Established in 1855, this vast building near the Haus der Kunst now contain millions of priceless works of art, including paintings, carvings, sculptures, statues, stained glass and church art.
Next was a sweep past the impressive New Parliament Building, the grand and imposing Bavarian Opera and the 1330 room Rezidenz (Palace) of Munich, which contains no less than 5 concert halls. We then disembarked from our coaches on the steps of the Opera House, and then continued our tour on foot, once again marveling at the Gothic splendor of the Neues Rathaus (City Hall), the Frauenkirche, Alt Peter, City Gate and the hustle and bustle of the Marienplatz. Everyone parted company for a few hours for a last minute shopping frenzy, where many beer steins, hats, postcards, glasses, miniature cuckoo clocks and Bavarian souvenirs were snapped up before we all headed for the famous ‘fisherman’s fountain’ to head back to our coaches for our trip to Salzburg.
On the way, with the Austrian Alps looming majestically in the background, we could not resist the opportunity to watch the Sound of Music… with the scenery so beautiful, and with 80 choristers all still in fairly goo voice, it was lots of fun and a great way to build excitement as we headed to the stunningly beautiful Baroque city known as the ‘Rome of the North’, with its baroque domes, elegant steeples, coloured bell towers and post card scenery.
We soon crossed the border and although we were all sad to have left Germany, we were equally excited to be embarking on the Austrian leg of our tour.
Upon arrival in Salzburg, we embarked upon a walking tour of the Old Town… beginning at Mirabell Palace, which was commissioned to be built by Wolf Dietrich for Salome Alt in 1606. The Mirabell Gardens hold groups of statues based on figures from Greek mythology. The gardens adjoin the Kongresshaus (Congress Center) and the Kurhaus (Paracelsus Health Spa) and are right next to the famous Mozarteum where we would be attending a performance the following day (on Mozart’s Birthday!).
Towering over Salzburg as a silent sentinel for the last thousand years is the Hohensalzburg Fortress, built in 1077 by Archbishop Gebhard. Considerably enlarged by Archbishop Leonhard von Keutschach (1495-1519), the imposing white fortress sits atop a giant mountain of rock, and is the largest, fully-preserved fortress still standing in central Europe.
One of the most beautiful sights in Salzburg is the charming Getreidegasse (main shopping street). This magic is not only generated by the high, narrow houses tightly nestled together, the enticing shops and the wrought iron guild signs, but also to the romantic passageways and courtyards which intersect the street. In Getreidegasse, no. 9 is where the Leopold Mozart family lived from 1747 to 1773. Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was born here on January 27, 1756. Today the rooms once occupied by the Mozart family house a museum. Mozart is everywhere to be seen in Salzburg, so this building is in many ways a spiritual centre of a secular kind in Salzburg.
If Mozart’s birthhouse is the secular heart of the city, then the Dom (Cathedral) is certainly the sacred heart. The original cathedral was built in 774 by St. Virgil (745-784). After a huge fire that devastated the Old Salzburg in 1598, reconstruction of the cathedral commenced in 1614 under Prince Archbishop Markus Sittikus to plans by Santino Solari. The great Italian Baroque style Dom was consecrated in 1628 by Prince Archbishop Paris Lodron and occupies pride of place in the city. A giant green dome and two smaller domes tower above the surrounding buildings, and the bells of the Cathedral can be heard for miles. We were granted a rare chance to perform and record a few short pieces in the Dom, and we certainly enjoyed the incredible acoustics of the building, singing in front of Mozart’s favourite organ (the Cathedral has five significant organs which are all still in use!). The vast baroque paintings and marble carvings, the massive dome and the sheer size of the place is certainly inspiring. The nave can hold some 10,000 people standing and yet, the architecture makes it feel smaller. In any case it is certainly a magnificent building and we were greatly honored to be allowed the chance to perform there.
Next to the Dom is Prince Archbishops Residenz. The medieval bishops' residence was given today's magnificent early Baroque appearance at the end of the 16th century. It has recently been renovated, and it was in this building that the young Wolfgang Mozart gave his first public concert, at the age of 6!
St. Peter’s Abbey and Benedictine Monastery was founded by St. Rupert about the year 700, the latter with romanesque and gothic cloisters. The church is high romanesque converted to late-baroque. Adjoining the church is St. Peter's cemetery, the final resting place of prominent personalities, including the composer Michael Haydn and the sister of Wolfgang Amadeus, Nannerl Mozart. The St. Peter's Cemetery (Petersfriedhof) in Salzburg has a fascinating history. It's one of Europe's oldest cemeteries; the catacombs in the cliff (Moenschberg) behind it date to 215 AD. A small church is also partially contained within the mountain, carved straight out from bare rock.
Another favourite spot was the various cafes which have been an important part of life in Salzburg for centuries and still are. Of particular note are two cafes, which were well frequented by the MUCS contingent: Tomaselli’s (Mozart’s favourite café, and founded in 1705), and Furst’s, immediately across the road (founded in 1805 and home of the original Salzburger MozartKugel.) Coffee in Salzburg is a real tradition, not to be rushed, but always to be enjoyed. We certainly enjoyed the elegant waiters in their dinner suits, the table service and the amazing cakes, but apart from anything else it is the coffee itself that is so great. But not just any old coffee… there are dozens to choose from including: Melange (a normal white coffee), Verlängerter (a large black coffee), Einspänner (a coffee served in a mug, topped with whipped cream and icing sugar; rather lovely!), Kleiner Brauner (a small coffee with cream/milk), Grosser Brauner (a large coffee with cream/milk), Kurzer (a short espresso), Fiaker (a black coffee served in a tall glass with a shot of cherry rum which will certainly warm you up and keep you going for hours!)
After a long day, the weather was turning much colder and we all made our way across the river to the Mozarteum Restaurant, where we enjoyed a meal of Goulash and Spetzle (Austrian Pasta), with salad and bread, washed down with more beer and wine and followed by a lovely Apple desert. We then made our way to our Oekotel Salzburg, a few kilometers out of the centre of the town - and apart from a silly few who were too excited to sleep, we all enjoyed a warm bed and a good night’s rest after another amazing day of sightseeing, history and European magic!!
Andrew Wailes
Tuesday, 26 January 2010
Munich – Dachau
January 24 Sunday
We rose early this morning and made our way into the centre of Munich, admiring the city’s impressive monuments, palaces, sporting facilities and churches which line the grand boulevards that sweep into the centre of town. Our wonderful tour guide, the highly entertaining and uber-organized Maritza, is a Munich girl originally, and so we benefitted from a highly detailed commentary about the sights and traditions of Bavaria’s vibrant capital. We headed straight for our concert venue, the Baroque Buergersaalkirche (Citizen’s Assebly Hall Church), now the Marian Men’sCongregation Church of the Annunciation, right in the Heart of downtown Munich. Built in 1710, the building is interesting in that it is actually two churches built above eachother. Whilst relatively modest on the outside, the church itself boasts a magnificent and ornate interior, well lit by natural light and crystal chandeliers and featuring Sistine Chapel-like frescos on the ceiling and gold-covered statues and decorations.
At one end of the church a large three manual organ decorated in the baroque style dominated the huge choir gallery, from which we would sing during the High Mass. After a short rehearsal, the power and magnificence of the instrument became evident, as did the stunning acoustics of the building. We performed a selection of our repertoire, beginning with the bold and dramatic ‘Ecce Saccerdos’ by Anton Bruckner, calling on all our vocal strength to match the huge sound generated by the organ. Other items sang included Leavitt’s Kyrie, Bruckner’s Locus Iste, Mozart’s Ave Verum, Willcock’s Infant Holy, and various other items ending with a fabulous rendition of Rachmaninov’s Bogorodytse Dyevo (Rejoice O Virgin). A completely full church enthusiastically received our performances, and by the end of the Mass, there were around fifty people standing at the back and sides of the Church. Following the postlude, we were invited to move to the front of the chancel steps and then performed a short concert to a capacity audience who greeted our performances of Bruckner, Brahms and other short items with a loud and sustained standing ovation… a rare honour in Germany.
The acoustics of the church were perfect… and allowed us to sing with lots of dynamics and expression. Moments in Bruckner’s Os Justi and Tota Pulchra es Maria were magical, as the sound we made during the great forte passages hung in the air for what seemed like an eternity.
Afterwards we were presented with a relic of the recently Beatified ‘Apostle of Munich’ Father Rupert Mayer SJ, who’s tomb now lies in the lower church, and individual gold medallions and booklets commemorating his life and story. His birthday had fallen the day before, so it was a special time for his church’s congregation. We were presented with these gifts by a senior member of the Church Herr Franz Samuel (and his wife). Their granddaughter has just been accepted into Melbourne University, and they were thrilled by our visit. Like all our hosts, we exchanged gifts of friendship – and our presents of a wooden painted boomerang, calendar, photographic book of Melbourne and some material on MUCS were well received. As we left we were shown the tomb of Rupert Mayer, in the centre of the lower church which featured larger than life sized coloured marble depictions of the Stations of the Cross.
We then headed on foot to the Odeonsplatz, for a formal photograph between the great Lions of Bavaria that look over the Square. On one side stands the striking yellow Church of St Kajetan, known locally as the Theatinerkirche, and on the other the Grand Rezidenz (Munich’s Royal Palace).
We then rugged up and headed off to explore the city independently for a bit before enjoying a hot meal and coffee to prepare us for a cold and stark afternoon in the former Concentration Camp at Dachau. Dachau is actually a picturesque village about 45 mins drive from Munich, and there is virtually nothing to indicate that a compound so tragic and horrific could possibly exist. We walked along the grey gravel road, covered in snow and ice and guarded now only by Silver Birch and Poplar trees. At Dachau, after entering the famous iron gates, we were all reflective as we contemplated the tragedies of WWII, and saw for ourselves just how horrific the concentration camp must have been. The place had an eerie atmosphere, and it seemed colder there than anywhere we have yet been. The buildings that remain are all grey and green, and almost blend into the dull grey gravel that covers the vast recreation area. There is no signage outside, and although many of the buildings and equipment ha now been removed, there are still remnants of the barbed wire and fortified guard towers and defense systems that were once completely surrounding the camp. The gas chambers, crematoriums and dormatories are all now represented by just a few buildings, but nonetheless they give the visitor a clear idea of what it must have been like. An excellent museum depicts some aspects of camp life and conditions in detail, and whilst confronting and emotionally difficult for some, it was a visit many of us felt was an important one. The trip back to Munich on the bus was unusually quiet, and according to our German tour guide, this was not unusual.
Everyone had several hours to think about what we had seen that day, and like so many before us, it was hard to digest.
Our final evening in Germany would be spent in Bavaria, and fittingly we would celebrate good times, with a visit to the famous Hofbräuhaus for dinner, LOTS of beer and traditional Bavarian music, singing and dancing. The Staatliches Hofbräuhaus in München (München) is a brewery in Munich, now owned by the state government. The Hof (court) comes from the brewery's history as a royal brewery in the Kingdom of Bavaria. Wilhelm V., Duke of Bavaria (1579 – 1597), had a thirsty and demanding royal household, which was dissatisfied with the beer brewed in Munich. As a result, beer had to be imported to Munich from the city of Einbeck in Lower Saxony. Wilhelm ordered his royal court to come up with a way to reconcile cost and pleasure. On September 27, 1589, the chamberlains and council members approached him with an idea: why not build their own brewery? Wilhelm welcomed the plan with open arms. As a matter of fact, that same day, he recruited the master brewer of the Geisenfeld Monastery to be the planner, developer and the first “brown” Hofbräuhaus’ master brewer, which went into operation at the “Alter Hof” ( Old Court ) in 1592. It was called the “brown” Hofbräuhaus as only brown ale was brewed there.
Today it is famous the world over, and we enjoyed the colour and atmosphere in the Festival Hall, where we were treated to a Bavarian Feast, as well as folk music played by the Band, folk singing, yodeling and slap dancing! We all got into the mood and joined in the drinking song despite not really knowing the words! Many beers were consumed (the standard size of beer there is one litre!!), and by the end of the night everyone was up dancing and having lots of fun. A few of us then ventured downstairs to the historic beer hall on the first floor of the building, which is considered the heart of the Hofbräuhaus. Here, where Hofbräuhaus beer was once brewed, underneath the cross vaults around 1,500 guests can sit at tables, some of which have been here since 1897 as testified by the many initials, names and comments engraved on them. It’s a tradition to leave your mark, so MUCS did so… thus joining many thousands of student groups who have done so before us.
By now a few of us were starting to look a little the worse for wear, but we were still in party mode, so kept going until we were kicked out! A short walk around the corner and we found a cosy little bar where the last few brave souls finished off the night with some French Champagne and cocktails before hailing a small fleet of taxis and making our way back to the Hotel for a much needed few hours of sleep and lots of water!!!
Andrew Wailes
We rose early this morning and made our way into the centre of Munich, admiring the city’s impressive monuments, palaces, sporting facilities and churches which line the grand boulevards that sweep into the centre of town. Our wonderful tour guide, the highly entertaining and uber-organized Maritza, is a Munich girl originally, and so we benefitted from a highly detailed commentary about the sights and traditions of Bavaria’s vibrant capital. We headed straight for our concert venue, the Baroque Buergersaalkirche (Citizen’s Assebly Hall Church), now the Marian Men’sCongregation Church of the Annunciation, right in the Heart of downtown Munich. Built in 1710, the building is interesting in that it is actually two churches built above eachother. Whilst relatively modest on the outside, the church itself boasts a magnificent and ornate interior, well lit by natural light and crystal chandeliers and featuring Sistine Chapel-like frescos on the ceiling and gold-covered statues and decorations.
At one end of the church a large three manual organ decorated in the baroque style dominated the huge choir gallery, from which we would sing during the High Mass. After a short rehearsal, the power and magnificence of the instrument became evident, as did the stunning acoustics of the building. We performed a selection of our repertoire, beginning with the bold and dramatic ‘Ecce Saccerdos’ by Anton Bruckner, calling on all our vocal strength to match the huge sound generated by the organ. Other items sang included Leavitt’s Kyrie, Bruckner’s Locus Iste, Mozart’s Ave Verum, Willcock’s Infant Holy, and various other items ending with a fabulous rendition of Rachmaninov’s Bogorodytse Dyevo (Rejoice O Virgin). A completely full church enthusiastically received our performances, and by the end of the Mass, there were around fifty people standing at the back and sides of the Church. Following the postlude, we were invited to move to the front of the chancel steps and then performed a short concert to a capacity audience who greeted our performances of Bruckner, Brahms and other short items with a loud and sustained standing ovation… a rare honour in Germany.
The acoustics of the church were perfect… and allowed us to sing with lots of dynamics and expression. Moments in Bruckner’s Os Justi and Tota Pulchra es Maria were magical, as the sound we made during the great forte passages hung in the air for what seemed like an eternity.
Afterwards we were presented with a relic of the recently Beatified ‘Apostle of Munich’ Father Rupert Mayer SJ, who’s tomb now lies in the lower church, and individual gold medallions and booklets commemorating his life and story. His birthday had fallen the day before, so it was a special time for his church’s congregation. We were presented with these gifts by a senior member of the Church Herr Franz Samuel (and his wife). Their granddaughter has just been accepted into Melbourne University, and they were thrilled by our visit. Like all our hosts, we exchanged gifts of friendship – and our presents of a wooden painted boomerang, calendar, photographic book of Melbourne and some material on MUCS were well received. As we left we were shown the tomb of Rupert Mayer, in the centre of the lower church which featured larger than life sized coloured marble depictions of the Stations of the Cross.
We then headed on foot to the Odeonsplatz, for a formal photograph between the great Lions of Bavaria that look over the Square. On one side stands the striking yellow Church of St Kajetan, known locally as the Theatinerkirche, and on the other the Grand Rezidenz (Munich’s Royal Palace).
We then rugged up and headed off to explore the city independently for a bit before enjoying a hot meal and coffee to prepare us for a cold and stark afternoon in the former Concentration Camp at Dachau. Dachau is actually a picturesque village about 45 mins drive from Munich, and there is virtually nothing to indicate that a compound so tragic and horrific could possibly exist. We walked along the grey gravel road, covered in snow and ice and guarded now only by Silver Birch and Poplar trees. At Dachau, after entering the famous iron gates, we were all reflective as we contemplated the tragedies of WWII, and saw for ourselves just how horrific the concentration camp must have been. The place had an eerie atmosphere, and it seemed colder there than anywhere we have yet been. The buildings that remain are all grey and green, and almost blend into the dull grey gravel that covers the vast recreation area. There is no signage outside, and although many of the buildings and equipment ha now been removed, there are still remnants of the barbed wire and fortified guard towers and defense systems that were once completely surrounding the camp. The gas chambers, crematoriums and dormatories are all now represented by just a few buildings, but nonetheless they give the visitor a clear idea of what it must have been like. An excellent museum depicts some aspects of camp life and conditions in detail, and whilst confronting and emotionally difficult for some, it was a visit many of us felt was an important one. The trip back to Munich on the bus was unusually quiet, and according to our German tour guide, this was not unusual.
Everyone had several hours to think about what we had seen that day, and like so many before us, it was hard to digest.
Our final evening in Germany would be spent in Bavaria, and fittingly we would celebrate good times, with a visit to the famous Hofbräuhaus for dinner, LOTS of beer and traditional Bavarian music, singing and dancing. The Staatliches Hofbräuhaus in München (München) is a brewery in Munich, now owned by the state government. The Hof (court) comes from the brewery's history as a royal brewery in the Kingdom of Bavaria. Wilhelm V., Duke of Bavaria (1579 – 1597), had a thirsty and demanding royal household, which was dissatisfied with the beer brewed in Munich. As a result, beer had to be imported to Munich from the city of Einbeck in Lower Saxony. Wilhelm ordered his royal court to come up with a way to reconcile cost and pleasure. On September 27, 1589, the chamberlains and council members approached him with an idea: why not build their own brewery? Wilhelm welcomed the plan with open arms. As a matter of fact, that same day, he recruited the master brewer of the Geisenfeld Monastery to be the planner, developer and the first “brown” Hofbräuhaus’ master brewer, which went into operation at the “Alter Hof” ( Old Court ) in 1592. It was called the “brown” Hofbräuhaus as only brown ale was brewed there.
Today it is famous the world over, and we enjoyed the colour and atmosphere in the Festival Hall, where we were treated to a Bavarian Feast, as well as folk music played by the Band, folk singing, yodeling and slap dancing! We all got into the mood and joined in the drinking song despite not really knowing the words! Many beers were consumed (the standard size of beer there is one litre!!), and by the end of the night everyone was up dancing and having lots of fun. A few of us then ventured downstairs to the historic beer hall on the first floor of the building, which is considered the heart of the Hofbräuhaus. Here, where Hofbräuhaus beer was once brewed, underneath the cross vaults around 1,500 guests can sit at tables, some of which have been here since 1897 as testified by the many initials, names and comments engraved on them. It’s a tradition to leave your mark, so MUCS did so… thus joining many thousands of student groups who have done so before us.
By now a few of us were starting to look a little the worse for wear, but we were still in party mode, so kept going until we were kicked out! A short walk around the corner and we found a cosy little bar where the last few brave souls finished off the night with some French Champagne and cocktails before hailing a small fleet of taxis and making our way back to the Hotel for a much needed few hours of sleep and lots of water!!!
Andrew Wailes
Monday, 25 January 2010
Saturday January 23 Rothenberg ob der Tauber – Ulm – Augsburg – Munich
Guten Tag!
After another hearty German breakfast, we once again packed the busses and hit the road. Travelling south, we made for the Danube River and the city of Ulm. There we spent a few hours in the ‘refreshingly brisk’ (ie freezing cold) temperatures exploring the city on foot, visiting some of the sights of this once important commercial river port that has made the city a wealthy one since the Middle Ages. Today, more a centre of scientific and technological research, fitting given that Ulm was the birthplace of Albert Einstein, the city still retains a charm with its old narrow laneways of the Altstadt that wind down to the Danube, as well as its Riverbank promenades, spacious squares and bustling pedestrian zones.
Crossing the little canals that flow through the old ‘Fisherman’s Quarter’ near the River, we were quite surprised to see large trout swimming wild in the shallow waters that zig zag in between (and through) the old medieval houses… reminiscent of Freiburg, the place would be an angler’s paradise. I must say I could easily live somewhere like Ulm where I could hang a line out my kitchen window and catch fresh trout for breakfast!! Aptly named was the old pub ‘Die Forelle’ perched, quite literally above the flowing water!
Another highlight was the magnificent Renaissance Patrician houses and the splendid Gothic Renaissance Rathaus (Town Hall), completely covered in the most glorious murals dating from the mid 16th century. The building itself was built in 1370 as a warehouse but has served since the town hall since 1419. On one side hang the coats of arms of the cities and countries with which Ulm is linked by commerce… on the east side is a splendid astronomical clock from 1520. I for one am amazed that they could build such things so long ago, let alone read them!!! I am still left scratching my head.
If that was impressive, then everything paled into insignificance with the sight of the magnificent towering steeple of Ulm Münster. Its 162 meter (531 feet) steeple is the tallest of any Cathedral in the world, and the church itself is second only to Cologne Cathedral in size. We were told that standing and without the pews, the Ulm Münster can easily accommodate 20,000 people in the nave alone! When it was built (from 1377), it could hold twice the entire population of the City. When Ulm joined the Protestant movement in 1531, work on the building was suspended. Finally in 1844 it recommenced, and was completed in 1890. Though Ulm was bombed in 1944 the building escaped any serious damage, probably due to the amazingly tall spire which served as a landmark for the allied bombers and made it easy to avoid.
The main porch with three massive arches led to two gigantic 15th century doors. This section dates from the 14th and 15th century and is covered in wonderful statues and reliefs depicting scenes from the bible, and the life of various saints.
The five aisles of the cathedral lead directly from the hall below the tower through the massive nave to the east chancel. Huge pillars towering into steep arches enclose each of the five aisles. The ceiling is so high that most of Germany’s church steeples could sit comfortably below it. Even with pews, the Cathedral sits some 12,000 people .
Though the Gothic tower was closed because of ice, we were lucky enough to be treated to a stunning recital on the vast organ that dominates the West end of the building. A thrilling performance of cascading semi-quavers and thunderingly powerful pedal notes filled the vast space with a magical resonance which swirled around the Gothic interior. All agreed that we had been indeed lucky to be there at the right time, and the disappointment of not making it up the 790 steps to the top of the tower was well compensated by the sound inside the Cathedral during our visit.
We then got back on the busses and headed for Bavaria, and its majestic Capital Munich.
We arrived at our Hotel Orly around 4.30pm, and checked in before hitting the S Bahn and heading into the centre of the city, Marienplatz. There we had several hours to explore the city on foot in our own time, getting a glimpse of sights including the magnificent Gothic Neues Rathaus and its famous Glockenspiel, the 15th century Altes Rathaus, the Isartor (Isar Gate), the Frauenkirche and its famous twin domes, and many of the other wonderful buildings and monuments.
A group of us climbed the bell tower of the ‘Old Peter’ Church for stunning views over the Rathaus and city, and enjoyed the slightly unnerving experience of the tower actually rocking when the giant bells in the tower started ringing. Before long all the bels of the city were ringing, and it was certainly a magnificent way to get our bearings in this big exciting city.
Another impressive structure was the ornately decorated Asamkirche, completely covered in Gold and Red Marble carvings. A quick visit to the bustling Viktualienmarkt (old market in the city) for some hot sausages and mustard revived a few of us before we headed to the s Bahn again and made our way back to the Hotel for a well earned hot dinner of pasta with olives and parsley, followed by Pork with rice and a wine and cream sauce, and then Bavarian Apple Cake for desert!
Washed down with a selection of Munich beers and German wines, most were ready for bed after another action-packed day in Germany.
Andrew Wailes
After another hearty German breakfast, we once again packed the busses and hit the road. Travelling south, we made for the Danube River and the city of Ulm. There we spent a few hours in the ‘refreshingly brisk’ (ie freezing cold) temperatures exploring the city on foot, visiting some of the sights of this once important commercial river port that has made the city a wealthy one since the Middle Ages. Today, more a centre of scientific and technological research, fitting given that Ulm was the birthplace of Albert Einstein, the city still retains a charm with its old narrow laneways of the Altstadt that wind down to the Danube, as well as its Riverbank promenades, spacious squares and bustling pedestrian zones.
Crossing the little canals that flow through the old ‘Fisherman’s Quarter’ near the River, we were quite surprised to see large trout swimming wild in the shallow waters that zig zag in between (and through) the old medieval houses… reminiscent of Freiburg, the place would be an angler’s paradise. I must say I could easily live somewhere like Ulm where I could hang a line out my kitchen window and catch fresh trout for breakfast!! Aptly named was the old pub ‘Die Forelle’ perched, quite literally above the flowing water!
Another highlight was the magnificent Renaissance Patrician houses and the splendid Gothic Renaissance Rathaus (Town Hall), completely covered in the most glorious murals dating from the mid 16th century. The building itself was built in 1370 as a warehouse but has served since the town hall since 1419. On one side hang the coats of arms of the cities and countries with which Ulm is linked by commerce… on the east side is a splendid astronomical clock from 1520. I for one am amazed that they could build such things so long ago, let alone read them!!! I am still left scratching my head.
If that was impressive, then everything paled into insignificance with the sight of the magnificent towering steeple of Ulm Münster. Its 162 meter (531 feet) steeple is the tallest of any Cathedral in the world, and the church itself is second only to Cologne Cathedral in size. We were told that standing and without the pews, the Ulm Münster can easily accommodate 20,000 people in the nave alone! When it was built (from 1377), it could hold twice the entire population of the City. When Ulm joined the Protestant movement in 1531, work on the building was suspended. Finally in 1844 it recommenced, and was completed in 1890. Though Ulm was bombed in 1944 the building escaped any serious damage, probably due to the amazingly tall spire which served as a landmark for the allied bombers and made it easy to avoid.
The main porch with three massive arches led to two gigantic 15th century doors. This section dates from the 14th and 15th century and is covered in wonderful statues and reliefs depicting scenes from the bible, and the life of various saints.
The five aisles of the cathedral lead directly from the hall below the tower through the massive nave to the east chancel. Huge pillars towering into steep arches enclose each of the five aisles. The ceiling is so high that most of Germany’s church steeples could sit comfortably below it. Even with pews, the Cathedral sits some 12,000 people .
Though the Gothic tower was closed because of ice, we were lucky enough to be treated to a stunning recital on the vast organ that dominates the West end of the building. A thrilling performance of cascading semi-quavers and thunderingly powerful pedal notes filled the vast space with a magical resonance which swirled around the Gothic interior. All agreed that we had been indeed lucky to be there at the right time, and the disappointment of not making it up the 790 steps to the top of the tower was well compensated by the sound inside the Cathedral during our visit.
We then got back on the busses and headed for Bavaria, and its majestic Capital Munich.
We arrived at our Hotel Orly around 4.30pm, and checked in before hitting the S Bahn and heading into the centre of the city, Marienplatz. There we had several hours to explore the city on foot in our own time, getting a glimpse of sights including the magnificent Gothic Neues Rathaus and its famous Glockenspiel, the 15th century Altes Rathaus, the Isartor (Isar Gate), the Frauenkirche and its famous twin domes, and many of the other wonderful buildings and monuments.
A group of us climbed the bell tower of the ‘Old Peter’ Church for stunning views over the Rathaus and city, and enjoyed the slightly unnerving experience of the tower actually rocking when the giant bells in the tower started ringing. Before long all the bels of the city were ringing, and it was certainly a magnificent way to get our bearings in this big exciting city.
Another impressive structure was the ornately decorated Asamkirche, completely covered in Gold and Red Marble carvings. A quick visit to the bustling Viktualienmarkt (old market in the city) for some hot sausages and mustard revived a few of us before we headed to the s Bahn again and made our way back to the Hotel for a well earned hot dinner of pasta with olives and parsley, followed by Pork with rice and a wine and cream sauce, and then Bavarian Apple Cake for desert!
Washed down with a selection of Munich beers and German wines, most were ready for bed after another action-packed day in Germany.
Andrew Wailes
Thursday 21 January Stuttgart – Bad Mergentheim – Rothenberg ob der Tauber
Early morning start today, so we all got up early with our hosts and made our various ways to the Stuttgart University Central Campus where our busses were waiting for us. Stuttgart is a very hilly city, completely surrounded by steep hills and wineyards, which means that many houses are set atop steep climbs of stairs, so many of us got our morning excercise before we had even got on the bus!
Travelling along the Romantic Road, we made our way to the spa city of Bad Mergentheim. The former town of the Residence of the Grand and German Masters of the Order of the Teutonic nights, the town is now famous for its Castle of the Teutonic Order, and the Solymar Bathing and Wellness Park.
It was here that we presented a concert in the Wandelhalle of the Spa Bad Mergentheim, a bright, glass enclosed concert hall for around five hundred people, with modern stage and striking glass chandeliers. Here we presented an afternoon one hour program, accompanied by piano as opposed to organ. Any concerns about getting an audience were soon dismissed, as we began singing to a full house... mainly wealthy German Seniors Citizens who were taking the waters of the famous health retreat. The crowd loved the concert and gave a generous ovation both before and after the program, ensuring thatevery single person received applause as they entered and left the stage. They were generous in other ways too... we received EURO $700 for program donations alone! This was a great relief, given the $1000 charges to get the programs to Europe in te first place!!!
After the concert we were treated to a private visit to the drinking room, where marble fountains of various thermal waters poured at different temperatures. These ranged from a tepid, flat mineral water, to a hot extremely salty potion which is apparently very good for one’s digestive system but so good that we were advised not to drink too much given we had a long trip on the bus ahead of us!!! Given the revolting taste, there was little chance of that happening, but nevertheless we were all keen to try a taste for ourselves.
We then continued along the Romantic Road, travelling through the towns of Weikersheim, Röttingen, and Creglingen, before reaching our destination of Rothenberg ob der Tauber. En route, we enjoyed a few hours in the City of Würtzburg, traditionally the firsat major town on the Romantic Road Route, and considered to be one of Germany’s lovliest baroque cities. With a population of some 50,000 students, this „ town of the Madonnas“ because of the more than 100 statues of its Patron Saint that adorn the houise fronts there.
It was amazing to think that on March 16, 1945 the city was devestated by a massive allied bombing air raid which killed some 50,000 people in a few hours. In a miraculoyus rebuilding program, nearly every major structure was salvaged and restored, retaining the original look and layout of the city.
Watched over by its great landmark, the Marienburg Fortress, the university and the congress city on the River Main is also surrounded by vineyards and is considered to be the capital of the Franconian Wine district.
We disembarked from the coaches right opposite the impressive former Prince Bishop’s Residence (a UNIESCO World Heritage Building). The last and finest in a great line of baroque castles built in Bavaria in the 17th century, this beautiful horseshoe shaped palace was begun in 1720 and is certainly one of the most beautiful palaces we have so far experienced. It provided a lavish backdrop for a group photo in front of the huge bronze statue at the front of the structure.
Exploring the town on foot, we had the chance to see buildings such as the Cathedral of St Kilian (begun in 1045 and the fourth largest romanesque cathedral in Germany), the New Minster, St Mary’s Chapel, the bustling Market Place and the beautiful old bridge over the River Main, adorned with many larger than life sandstone statues of German Saints.
By the time we got back on the busses, it was getting gloomy and the temperature was falling fast, so we enjoyed the warmth of our vehicles on the last leg of our journey, to the ancient medieval city of Rothenberg ob der (above the) Tauber. We checked in to the Rothenberger Hof, a rambling, family owned hotel right in the middle of the new part of the City, directly opposite the Bahnhof, and a few short minutes walk from the famous city walls that enclose the perfectly-preserved Altstadt of this famous former Free Imperial City, which dates from around the year 804.
Andrew Wailes
Travelling along the Romantic Road, we made our way to the spa city of Bad Mergentheim. The former town of the Residence of the Grand and German Masters of the Order of the Teutonic nights, the town is now famous for its Castle of the Teutonic Order, and the Solymar Bathing and Wellness Park.
It was here that we presented a concert in the Wandelhalle of the Spa Bad Mergentheim, a bright, glass enclosed concert hall for around five hundred people, with modern stage and striking glass chandeliers. Here we presented an afternoon one hour program, accompanied by piano as opposed to organ. Any concerns about getting an audience were soon dismissed, as we began singing to a full house... mainly wealthy German Seniors Citizens who were taking the waters of the famous health retreat. The crowd loved the concert and gave a generous ovation both before and after the program, ensuring thatevery single person received applause as they entered and left the stage. They were generous in other ways too... we received EURO $700 for program donations alone! This was a great relief, given the $1000 charges to get the programs to Europe in te first place!!!
After the concert we were treated to a private visit to the drinking room, where marble fountains of various thermal waters poured at different temperatures. These ranged from a tepid, flat mineral water, to a hot extremely salty potion which is apparently very good for one’s digestive system but so good that we were advised not to drink too much given we had a long trip on the bus ahead of us!!! Given the revolting taste, there was little chance of that happening, but nevertheless we were all keen to try a taste for ourselves.
We then continued along the Romantic Road, travelling through the towns of Weikersheim, Röttingen, and Creglingen, before reaching our destination of Rothenberg ob der Tauber. En route, we enjoyed a few hours in the City of Würtzburg, traditionally the firsat major town on the Romantic Road Route, and considered to be one of Germany’s lovliest baroque cities. With a population of some 50,000 students, this „ town of the Madonnas“ because of the more than 100 statues of its Patron Saint that adorn the houise fronts there.
It was amazing to think that on March 16, 1945 the city was devestated by a massive allied bombing air raid which killed some 50,000 people in a few hours. In a miraculoyus rebuilding program, nearly every major structure was salvaged and restored, retaining the original look and layout of the city.
Watched over by its great landmark, the Marienburg Fortress, the university and the congress city on the River Main is also surrounded by vineyards and is considered to be the capital of the Franconian Wine district.
We disembarked from the coaches right opposite the impressive former Prince Bishop’s Residence (a UNIESCO World Heritage Building). The last and finest in a great line of baroque castles built in Bavaria in the 17th century, this beautiful horseshoe shaped palace was begun in 1720 and is certainly one of the most beautiful palaces we have so far experienced. It provided a lavish backdrop for a group photo in front of the huge bronze statue at the front of the structure.
Exploring the town on foot, we had the chance to see buildings such as the Cathedral of St Kilian (begun in 1045 and the fourth largest romanesque cathedral in Germany), the New Minster, St Mary’s Chapel, the bustling Market Place and the beautiful old bridge over the River Main, adorned with many larger than life sandstone statues of German Saints.
By the time we got back on the busses, it was getting gloomy and the temperature was falling fast, so we enjoyed the warmth of our vehicles on the last leg of our journey, to the ancient medieval city of Rothenberg ob der (above the) Tauber. We checked in to the Rothenberger Hof, a rambling, family owned hotel right in the middle of the new part of the City, directly opposite the Bahnhof, and a few short minutes walk from the famous city walls that enclose the perfectly-preserved Altstadt of this famous former Free Imperial City, which dates from around the year 804.
Andrew Wailes
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